How could you not like the Dordogne
Our planned six-hour drive from Menérèbe to the Dordogne turned into a nightmarish eleven hours. I’d once been warned that the first weekend of the summer school holidays results in gridlocked roads—well, we certainly experienced the painful crawl for hours. Then, we were brought to a standstill as fire trucks dealt with a large bushfire. And as if that wasn’t enough, we had two compulsory 45-minute breaks, as required by our bus driver. Just as we neared our château, we were forced to take a long detour. Some days just aren't meant to go smoothly... All I can say is, thank goodness our bus had a toilet!
Château Monrecour is stately and beautiful. While there’s a lift for the luggage, there isn’t one for guests. The grand staircase, wide and sweeping, tells a story of wealth and opulence. Our room in the top tower gave me lots of moments when I should have been iwalking down in a large gown and not my simple summer dress. Probably bought in a market for 15 E . The food here is wonderful, and everyone quickly gathered for a well-deserved beer or glass of wine, followed by a typical three-course French dinner. Outside, in the calm evening air, it was relaxing, and it didn’t take long for us all to feel comfortable once again.
With two swimming pools, we’re spoilt for choice. Massive plane trees surround the château, offering much-needed shade. This year, a new building has been added—complete with a gym, additional dining rooms, and more bedrooms. The French are brilliant at making new structures look as though they’ve been there for centuries.
My itinerary followed our 2024 route quite closely. We began with a visit to Beynac Castle in the neighboring village. The story of Eleanor of Aquitaine captured everyone’s hearts—a powerful and influential woman of the Middle Ages. The castle itself is a formidable medieval fortress, with stark stone walls, high ramparts, and breathtaking views of the river valley.
Later that morning, we arrived in Sarlat and, by pure chance, stumbled upon a Medieval Festival—held only once every 30 years. It was a celebration of local history, featuring a glorious parade of villagers in traditional costume, many playing ancient instruments and dancing in groups. A feast for 750 was set up in the square. There were also displays of lace-making, rope-making, wood-turning, and, of course, plenty of food. I happened to meet a guide named "Jazzy," who graciously explained everything and led us through the medieval heart of Sarlat. Twice a week, this area hosts a large local produce market. As we’re in the heart of foie gras country, it seemed only right to have some for lunch!
The famous gardens of the Dordogne—Eyrignac and Marqueyssac—are known for their intricate, clipped box hedging. Although I’m not naturally drawn to formal gardens, I find these absolutely stunning. They’re old, elegant, and beautiful to walk through.
Kléber Rossillon, the current owner and restorer of Les Jardins de Marqueyssac, is the grandson of “O’Galop,” who lived nearby in Beynac. O’Galop was an accomplished artist, best known for creating the Michelin Man, "Bibendum." The Michelin brothers, who started with tyres, soon expanded into creating maps and restaurant guides—tools that remain a bible for many European travelers.
The box hedges at Marqueyssac are still trimmed entirely by hand, with teams of gardeners even abseiling down steep slopes to maintain them.
We made a quick stop at Castelnaud for the castle lovers to get their final fix. But for me, the highlight is always a visit to Château des Milandes, the former home of the extraordinary Josephine Baker—an entertainer, resistance fighter, civil rights activist, and adoptive mother to 11 children. Her beloved château now tells her inspiring story beautifully.
Medieval towns like Bergerac are always worth a visit, and the Prehistoric Museum in Les Eyzies adds a rich layer of historical complexity that kept us immersed for hours.
Once again, the Dordogne stole our hearts. Château Monrecour was the perfect base for exploring the region’s castles, gardens, and charming villages. On our final stunning morning, at least ten hot air balloons floated overhead—some so close, it felt like they were looking right at us.
From there, we traveled to Bordeaux—some stayed on, while the rest of my group continued on to explore the wonders of Paris before returning to winter in New Zealand. As for us, we carried on by train to Normandy to visit our dear French friends Jacques and Anny—whom we first met in Dunedin.They spoilt us while we dealt with colds and needed to sleep.
XXXX Judith