Buongiorno, Bonsoir and now Hola
We’re on our own now—and it feels a little strange. After picking up our new Peugeot near Orly Airport, south of Paris, we had just two days to explore a list of châteaux and sights.
Our first stop, Château de Courances, was closed on Saturday and Sunday—great start!
Fortunately, our accommodation couldn’t have been better. Le Floie Saint Julian, a charming five-bedroom guesthouse in a tiny village, was perfectly located for everything we wanted to see. Tastefully decorated, somewhere between gorgeous and fabulous, it featured a peaceful garden with plenty of deck chairs, a small pool, and a relaxing atmosphere. Christine, the host, quickly had us booked into her favorite local restaurants, and her breakfasts were a delight—everything homemade.
With only a day and a half to research for our planned 2026 French tour, we made the most of our time. Château de Chenonceau was just 15 minutes away and we easily dissolved away 3 hours in the gardens and Chateaux.. I think I was more excited about the huge wonderful flower arragments that filled every room. Each one more stunning than before. Later, we tried to visit a local abbey in Pontlevoy, but were turned away by a rather harried resident priest—it was closed.
Dinner that night at Le Salamandre, in another nearby village, was brilliant. We dined outside between the castle and the church—an unforgettable setting with excetional food and service.
After another delicious breakfast, we visited several potential château accommodations, and then made our way to Château de Villandry. Seeing the famous formal vegetable gardens from above was a dream come true and had been on my ‘to do’ list for many years.
From there, we headed towards Spain for the next part of our journey—our own holiday but also opotential research. A countryside stop in Bordeaux led us to Christine and Bruno, who live in a converted 15th century leper hospital (Chateau l’Hospital) and run a vineyard when they’re not playing golf. It was a classic example of discovering kind, hospitable people who spoiled us with food, wine, and great company.
Winding through a maze of narrow streets, we eventually made it to the beach at Biarritz for lunch—and, even better, managed to get back out! The town, full of grand apartments right on the sand, was far more elegant than I’d imagined.
By evening, we were staying at another vineyard perched high in the hills above the seaside towns of Getaria and Zarautz. Within 15 minutes, we were in Zarautz and found a restaurant with the same name as our bedroom—apparently, a family nickname. After a stunning main course, we called it a night following a long day of driving. The peace, fresh air, and stillness gave us the best night's sleep, in a huge bed with the crispest white cotton sheets (so important!).
Our next destination was San Sebastián—a top recommendation from our friend Charles—and it didn’t disappoint. Buzzing with tourists, the city stretches along one of the most beautiful beaches we’ve ever seen. We were introduced to pintxos, the famous Basque small bites served on bread, and made multiple stops to sample them—always paired with a glass of local wine, of course. This is a very foodie city and there are many Gastonomical societies where locals get together and celebrate their food.
It was hot, and my knee decided to give up, so we opted for the hop-on hop-off bus. It turned out to be a great decision: air-conditioned, informative, and it took us to places we wouldn’t have reached otherwise.
That evening, we wandered through our closest little town, Getaria, passing surfers who reminded us of St Clair. We ended up at a simple local restaurant, eating anchovies and octopus while watching rather large fishing boats arrive and depart.
The first two days of our three-week Spanish adventure are off to a great start. Our miserable colds are improving, and we’re already soaking in the Spanish lifestyle, history, food, and wine—a dream come true.
