Le Pavillon de Galon an Exceptional, Unexpected Garden
Our remaining day in Provence was both eventful and wonderful.
I had planned to return to Nicole de Vésian’s garden, La Louve, in Bonnieux, and also to visit the newly restored Château de Beaucastel near Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The strategy was to see the new garden designed by Tom Stuart-Smith and enjoy a wine tasting. However, as often happens, the best-laid plans don’t always work out.
I was deeply disappointed when La Louve cancelled due to guests staying in the house, and Beaucastel declined our visit because we were too small a group during their busy reopening season after a four-year restoration.
I quickly switched into “what can I organise?” mode. I had read about a garden in the Vaucluse region, and after an initial “no,” I received a surprise email from Guy at Le Pavillon de Galon – a garden recognised as one of the Jardins Remarquables de France.
Although it’s actually a small hotel with just three rooms, spending a morning in this beautiful garden with Guy was truly special. The large garden gate opened into his "Blue Garden." The irises had finished blooming, but the tall, airy Perovskia made a stunning impression. While the garden has strong structure and formal hedges, it also conveys a soft, rambling charm, with sculpted specimen trees providing form and shade.
We saw only a small part of the 5-hectare property: orchards of oranges and lemons, an olive grove, vineyards, a kitchen garden, and fruit trees surrounding the perimeter. The guests’ pool is tucked away in a peaceful garden, while in front of the house stand a 300-year-old magnolia and several plane trees. Their vast canopies offered shelter as we sat beneath them enjoying chilled herbal water infused with lemon balm, cucumber, and lemon.
Guy’s wife, Nanya, joined us—a very elegant French woman who perfectly complements the house and garden. The home itself is a pale apricot-painted restored hunting lodge that harmonises beautifully with its surroundings.
As we chatted, I learned that Guy is an international garden designer, especially active in India. He used to be a food critic in New York, is a chef himself, and their house and garden were featured in Gardens Illustrated magazine.
Sometimes, disappointments lead to unexpected treasures. Earlier that morning, since we were too early for our garden visit, we explored the tiny village of Cucuron. What a delight—a picture-perfect Provençal village, with a gorgeous central square featuring a long reflective pool lined with massive plane trees.
Later, we visited Chateau Lacoste for lunch and a stroll through the renowned sculpture park. With temperatures soaring into the high 30s, lunch on the shaded terrace beneath blooming wisteria was both refreshing and delicious. The simple menu suited everyone, and with a few bottles of local white wine, we couldn’t have asked for a better setting.
We entered the sculpture park through concrete gates designed by Tadao Ando, the self-taught Japanese architect inspired by his global travels. The stark simplicity of the gate marks the entrance to the domain and its impressive collection of large-scale sculptures. Some of us explored the installations near the gallery, while others ventured further, though the intense heat discouraged us from hiking up to see works by Ai Weiwei and Richard Serra.
Still, highlights were everywhere: Louise Bourgeois’ Crouching Spider was hard to miss, as were Sean Scully’s Boxes Full of Air and Annie Morris’s colourful Stack.
Our day turned out beautifully. Back at the villa, it was time to pack, take a final swim, and say goodbye to our beloved Alessandro. That evening, we had a lovely visitor—Louise, who house-sat for us last year and worked at Tarras Café. She’s now living in Montpellier, and we think of her as our French daughter. It was wonderful to see her.
Our week in Provence was once again an adventure. Every day brought something new. We learned about the significance of lavender in this region, the influence of the Romans, the distinctive Provençal way of life, its food and wine, and the beauty of villages like Ménerbes, Bonnieux, and Lacoste. But most importantly, we experienced the local culture, met the kind and generous people of the Luberon, and deepened our connection to this enchanting place.
We now have four days left on our tour—and a big driving day ahead as we head to the Dordogne.