Third Time Lucky - The Lavender Delivered
In our third year, we were finally lucky—the lavender was flowering. Thank goodness. The spectacular rows of purple are iconic here and a huge part of what draws people to Provence. In 2023, intense heat meant the lavender had already been harvested by the time we arrived. In 2024, a wet spring caused late flowering. So, it was a real relief to see it in full bloom this time, showing off its best.
Viilla Mas de la Salamandre was once again our peaceful and relaxed home for seven nights. We were utterly spoiled by Alessandro, who prepared exceptional meals each evening. He would source the freshest seafood, local duck, and tempt my group with his famous tiramisu and panna cotta. His commitment to slow cooking, intense stocks, and loyalty to local produce meant every dinner—enjoyed under the wisteria—was a masterclass in hospitality, food, wine, and friendship. We all adore Alessandro—his ever-cheerful smile, and the morning delivery of croissants and pain aux raisins, made each day start perfectly.
The weather was intensely hot—often reaching 40°C by mid-afternoon—so I adjusted the itinerary to make sure we were back at the villa in time to enjoy the pool or escape into the cool of the air conditioning with a plate of chilled watermelon.
Our first our morning was spent at the market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, which offered a truly lovely introduction to Provençal life and the all-important weekly market. Charcuterie, incredible cheeses, and sun-ripened local produce filled the tables of juicy figs, vibrant zucchini flowers, heritage tomatoes, traditional bread, and every summer vegetable imaginable, all laid out beneath enormous umbrellas. There were also stalls with straw hats, classic French market baskets, Provençal patterned cottons, and plenty of brocante treasures. Lavender products were everywhere, alongside the region’s famed Savon de Marseille soap.
Our guide Elisabeth—originally from Sweden—was excellent, leading us through the historic cities of Avignon, Arles, and Aix-en-Provence, immersing us in their history, character, and stories.
Avignon, a famous walled city, served as the seat of the papacy for over 70 years. Seven popes resided here, and the Palais des Papes—the largest Gothic building of its time—still stands as a symbol of papal power. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it draws thousands of visitors daily.The Rhône River, flowing past the city walls, has played an integral role in trade and military activity throughout history. Today, river cruise boats are a popular way to explore the region. Roman influence here is strongJulius Caesar founded the town in 46 BCE, and a statue of him was recently discovered buried in the Rhône.
Arles may hold the most significant Roman remains in the region. Its amphitheatre, which held 20,000 people, and its ancient theatre, with room for 10,000, are remarkable. On the day we visited, it was voluntary to walk into the arena in the blazing 40°C heat and imagine the bullfights that still take place there today.
Arles was also the setting for one of the more emotional moments of the trip. Vincent van Gogh spent time here in hospital during a turbulent period of his life. Visiting the restored courtyard where he convalesced, and having coffee in the very place he once sat, was humbling. Van Gogh came to the South of France in 1888 to escape the grey Parisian winters, drawn by the bright light, vivid colours, and rural landscapes. His time here remains deeply moving and inspiring.
Aix-en-Provence has everything I love in a southern French town—elegant, sun-drenched, and full of charm. Its tree-lined boulevards, bubbling fountains, and lively markets give it a relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere. It's also home to a large university, lending the city youthful energy. Once Cézanne’s home, the city still radiates artistic life, with open-air performances and galleries scattered throughout. I was bitterly disappointed to discover a major exhibition of Cézanne's work had just opened—and tickets were sold out for days.
Each day, we chose somewhere new for lunch, and I somehow kept returning to burrata and tomato salad or small plates of cheese and salami paired with local wine. Simple, fresh, and perfect.
Afternoon visits were tailored to the heat. The Carrières de Lumières was a highlight—Monet’s works projected onto the walls of a vast, disused quarry. It’s always an incredible experience, and the naturally cool environment made it even more enjoyable. Equally refreshing was our visit to the amphora barrel room at Domaine de Marie, just across the road from our villa. A cool hour spent on a guided tour and wine tasting was a joy. And since we could walk back, Alessandro, watermelon, and the pool were all waiting for us on return.
