Cote d’Azur’s Magic Spell
For the third year in a row, Philip and I have returned to Cagnes-sur-Mer.
Our first visit was in 2023 when we stayed in a very narrow three-storey Airbnb. While compact, it had a lovely private deck on the top floor. Since then, we’ve chosen Château Le Cagnard for our group trips, returning here in 2024 and again this year.
I can’t say it offers easy access—no medieval village does—but it’s undeniably charming. Just below the communal square, which hots a great selection of restaurants and a competitive pétanque court, the village unfolds. Typical narrow cobbled streets, winding steps, and closely built houses meander down the slope. A small free bus conveniently escorts visitors and locals down to the shops.
Our gorgeous hotel, Le Cagnard, is a lesson in attention to detail, it is not only beautifully decorated—along with vases of fresh flowers but had wonderful friendly attentive staff. Offersing breathtaking views out to the Ligurian Sea. our Champagne was the perfect aperitif on our first night, enjoyed after everyone had arrived by train or plane from various destinations.
The hotel has a Swedish influence thanks to its Swedish owner. This year, both the kitchen and hospitality teams were also Swedish, and what a difference it made! The meals and service improved dramatically, delivered by an innovative and helpful young staff. It was another delightful stay, it was a perfect afternoon respite after the many experiences the Côte d’Azur has to offer.
We kicked off our 2024 trip with a repeat visit to Antibes on the first day. Once a fishing village, Antibes is now a vibrant, compact city bustling with tourists and locals at its daily market. A visit to one of Picasso’s former studios remains a personal highlight and it’s one of my favourite ways to spend time here.
The Côte d’Azur is home to countless floating palaces—some unimaginably large, others more modest, and some I could even imagine holidaying on. I did some research and discovered that renting one costs hundreds of thousands more than even my villa rentals! And that’s not including fuel, port charges, staff, or a captain. It’s another world entirely.
On day two we enjoyed a morning walking tour in Nice with yet another lovely Swedish guide, Eva. We sampled the delicious local chickpea pancakes known as Socca—light, savoury, and memorable. PLus, she effortlessly immersed us the history and life of the old town in Nice.
After lunch, we visited the spectacular Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, just south of Nice. Perched high on a promontory, it overlooks the sea in breathtaking fashion. I’d long resisted visiting—partly due to the opulence and the lifestyle it represents—but Beatrice’s story changed my mind. A wealthy, single 42-year-old woman, she was deeply involved in the design of both the house and its gardens. I’m glad I went. The gardens were more varied and interesting than I expected, and since she gifted it to the region - the sheer number of international visitors attests to the villa’s importance as wonderf French asset.
This year, I shuffled the schedule a bit. We began our third day in Grasse, the famous perfume town, and visited the Fragonard perfumery first thing in the morning. We then had a long and beautiful lunch at Sous le Pins, set in the grounds of the Maeght Foundation—the international modern art gallery. It was an idyllic setting, surrounded by sculptures, including a Chagall mosaic just behind our table. After lunch, we explored the thoroughly modern gallery, followed by a short walk along a charming lane filled with flowering plants to the medieval village of Saint-Paul de Vence.
Once a haven for artists, Saint-Paul de Vence is now brimming with art shops and tourists. For me, it has lost some of its original charm. A stroll from one end to the other suffices these days.
A personal highlight though was our dinner at Fleur de Sel in Cagnes-sur-Mer—a tiny, 24-seat restaurant run by two talented 30-year-olds. Their attention to detail was evident in both flavour and presentation. Here's a rough translation of their exquisite menu we enjoyed:
Canapés (3 pieces each)
Starter: Poached, half-cooked mackerel in court bouillon, vegetable pickles, caramelised onion cream, bottarga, and a reduced mackerel consommé.
Main course: Free-range poultry rolled and filled with confit leg, zucchini cannelloni, bohémienne (a Provençal vegetable dish), zucchini and saurel mousseline, and sauce suprême.
Dessert: Apricot-based, infused with vanilla and rosemary.
Philip and I were just 29 when we opened our café Partners, so I was especially thrilled to see this passionate young couple open their doors just for our group. I wish them every success—with their talent and dedication, they’re bound to go far.
The weather has been unusually hot, with temperatures soaring above 35°C every day. A sunhat, a bottle of water, comfortable footwear and following the shade are absolutely essential.
The Côte d’Azur has cast its spell—not just on me, but on my entire group. Impressionist artists loved the light and many lived here. It’s easy to see why thousands have been captivated by this region ever since the first train arrived from Paris in 1846. With over 300 days of sunshine a year and a stunning coastline, its allure is undeniable.
I can never leave without a visit to the demure authentic home of Renior - where this lovely man lived to his old age in the house and garden that remains the same today..
xxxJudith
