Cheers to Umbria and Emiglia Romagna
The Umbrian valley is encased by hillsides dotted with some of the most beautiful villages, their pale pink and cream buildings cascade down the slopes.
We spent four nights at one of my favourite hotels, Palazzo Bontadossi in Montefalco. Perched on its own little hill, the view each evening as the sun went down was simply magical. Benedetta and Sylvia are the most wonderful receptionists, always providing us with such care, attention and warmth. Sylvia even arranged for her own doctor to see some members of our group who were struggling with persistent ear infections.
Breakfast each morning, overlooking the piazza, was the perfect way to start the day before heading off to explore. We visited Deruta for its beautiful ceramics, Assisi for an immersion into the world of Saint Francis, and Perugia for a passeggiata through its gorgeous piazza, with time to enjoy a leisurely lunch. There was a walk around the Rocca and another outstanding long lunch at Apollinare in Spoleto, where two chef brothers prepared and served a brilliant meal complete with perfectly matched wines. We also visited flower-filled Spello, enjoying an afternoon stroll from the top of the town to the bottom.
Four nights in Montefalco brought with them three perfect dinners, each extolling the virtues of Umbrian food and wine. Yet returning to Lunelli’s architectural masterpiece, Carapace, is always a highlight. Once again, another Sylvia arranged a wonderful experience at this uniquely outstanding winery, where we tasted some of the estate’s finest Sagrantino wines.
It was also great to have Daniele, our bus company owner and dear friend, back with us.
Back out to the Adriatic coast from Umbria. We began our four days in Emilia-Romagna with our guide, Angela, visiting three 4th-century churches in Ravenna. Their walls are lined with exquisite mosaics depicting religious stories, created at a time when most people could neither read nor write. The significance of these churches, and the fact that the mosaics remain in such pristine condition, is truly remarkable.
My hotel choice was right in the heart of Bologna, giving us a completely different city experience. After our first morning walking tour with Elena, the city's enormous red-brick buildings and magnificent churches, came to life. We were now well orientated and ready to explore. Bologna has 61 km of Porticoes which provide shelter trroughout the cit and one 3.2 km long. BUilt to bring students for tjhe country down to the university which is the oldest in Italy.
Following a typical lunch of local cheeses and cured meats,in the famous foodie streets, some shopped, others visited the outdoor antique market, while a few chose the Giorgio Morandi Museum to view his evocative still-life paintings.
The temperature has certainly risen—38 degrees today! Our rooftop bar became the perfect gathering place in the early evenings for a pre-dinner drink, and dining in fun local trattorias gave us the opportunity to meet some wonderfully characterful locals.
The trees here are magnificent. Enormous cedars, tilias and cypresses are found throughout both the city and the countryside. I cant imagine how long ours will take to grow back in Tarras !!!
Of course, Emilia-Romagna is all about the production of Parmigiano Reggiano, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale and Prosciutto di Parma. We enjoyed three visits, and all three were outstanding. Learning about the craftsmanship, tradition and strict regulations that the consortium requires to ensure these unique products can only be produced in this region was a masterclass in quality, heritage and authenticity.
But sadly, there is always a last day, a last dinner and a last breakfast together. It is also a time for Philip and me to reflect, appreciate and thank yet another exceptional touring group.
How lucky Philip and I are? xx