Italie a terminé, France pour commencer

The weather in Europe is hot – in fact, very hot. Evidently, we are experiencing a heatwave, but year after year we are finding temperatures rising earlier and earlier. We are now experiencing 34–36°C most days, and I have discovered that half the clothes in my suitcase are simply not suitable.

After Bologna, many of my group dispersed to airports and train stations to return to New Zealand, while others continued travelling and even biking in the Dolomites. After dropping two passengers in Padua and seven at Venice Airport, Philip and I headed home with Daniele, my bus driver, where we were thoroughly spoiled for two nights. It is always wonderful to catch up with his wife, Marika, and their four children, who are now involved in the family bus company.

Greeted by Ufa, the Favoretto family's Lagotto dog (a truffle-hunting breed), and a delicious lunch of gnocchi, we promptly transported our clothes to the washing machine before enjoying a rather lovely siesta. Later, we headed to the packed local pizzeria for pizza, followed by gelato from an equally crowded gelateria at 10.30 pm.

My friend Cristina had drawn a large line through her diary on the 18th to spend the day with us. She is one of the busiest guides in Venice, and I first met her back in 2012. We have been close friends ever since. Our day together involved plenty of chatting and time spent in the gorgeous town of Basanao del Grappa,. However, dinner was the highlight, with everyone gathered around the huge family dining table. It was hilarious to watch the boys prepare their meals from the freezer, microwave and grill when they refused to eat the absolutely outstanding fish feast Daniele had prepared for us.

Time is never long enough here to fully immerse oneself in Italian family life.

Philip and I flew to Lyon a couple of days before my French tour was due to begin so that we could become acquainted with the city. I chose a hotel in the heart of Lyon. It is typically Lyonnais—not large, but full of character—and features bobbins displayed throughout the reception area, reflecting the city's rich silk-weaving heritage.

We quickly learned to get up early and walk before the heat became too uncomfortable. It is amazing how, in just a couple of days, with the help of podcasts, Meta AI, apps such as GPSmyCity, and websites like the Daily Telegraph's "Best Restaurants", you can plan your time wisely and discover the best local food.

Paul Bocuse Les Halles is a highlight and simply cannot be missed. It is a masterclass in stunning French food, beautifully prepared and displayed. I felt obliged to try a local speciality, so it was frog legs for lunch. Although quite bony, they tasted remarkably like chicken.

Walking beside the Rhône under huge plane trees, passing through the local market stalls, was delightful. Dining at the formal Paul Bocuse restaurant "Le Nord" that evening was a lesson in the true skill of professional waiters as they expertly boned fish and flambéed desserts tableside.

A walk through the medieval old town, with its narrow cobbled streets, was quiet and cool on an early Sunday morning. Discovering the famous passageways known as traboules was particularly exciting. These hidden passageways provided quick access to the Saône River for fresh water, and some were used to transport precious silk rolls without exposing them to the rain. They also provided shelter for members of the Resistance during the Second World War.

The imposing Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière sits high above the city on the hill. We chose to take the funicular to the top. The basilica stands on the site of an ancient Roman forum and, although we visited the nearby amphitheatre, it was covered in equipment in preparation for a concert. The views over Lyon from the basilica are expansive and beautiful.

I was disappointed that the famous textile museum was closed for renovation and saddened that the fabric shops in this arrondissement were closed as well. It was Sunday, and fortunately for the French, almost all shops were closed—although somewhat frustrating for tourists. On the other hand, it was good for both my wallet and my suitcase!

June 21 is World Music Day, celebrated throughout France. It is a nationwide event where streets, parks, squares, bars and public spaces are filled with free live music from both amateur and professional musicians.

We had noticed stages being set up throughout the old city during the day, but it was not until we left our restaurant, La Mercière, a traditional Lyonnais bouchon, that we fully appreciated what was happening. We had enjoyed a delicious traditional dinner in a private dining room, reached by a narrow spiral staircase. When we emerged onto the street, crowds had filled the city, musicians were performing on every corner, and DJs were entertaining diners outdoors at many restaurants.

We soon realised we had arrived in the middle of the Fête de la Musique, France's annual celebration of music. Lyon was alive with energy and thousands of young people walking the streets. As we drifted off to sleep that evening, lulled by the deep bass beats echoing through the city, it felt as though the French tour had begun in the best possible way.

XXX Judith