What’s not to like about Puglia

Brindisi, Lecce, wine tasting, and a tour through the market, along with outstanding foodie visits in Ceglie Messapica, filled our final days in Puglia. But we always made sure to arrive back in time to enjoy the Masseria's beautiful gardens and grounds, take a swim, enjoy a siesta, or go for a walk before drinks at 7pm and dinner at 8pm. Antonio, the chef, created delicious Puglian meals and each night we sat at a long table adjacent to the kitchen in a sheltered courtyard. The barbecue night, featuring the most delicious seafood, was a highlight. Grilled vegetables, which appeared often, were outstanding, and we were treated to desserts ranging from tiramisu to cheesecake, all with a local theme. But there was nothing more local than Panzerotti Night. Panzerotti are perhaps the most iconic food of Puglia. Made from pizza dough, they are filled with fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and a variety of other fillings, folded into a half-moon shape and then fried.However, the breakfasts prepared by Marilena were equally amazing and we were thoroughly spoilt. Fresh cakes and tarts appeared every morning, along with roulades, seasonal fruit, cured meats and cheeses. Every day offered something different.

The surrounding countryside is dotted with gorgeous whitewashed houses, many with clusters of trulli, and surrounded by olive trees, grapevines and productive vegetable gardens.

No lawns here!

One of my favourite visits is to Brindisi, a city with a long and fascinating history. Boasting a harbour with a narrow entrance, it has been the site of many battles over the centuries. The Romans occupied this territory and it became the gateway to Rome and the starting point of the Appian Way. We even had time for some power shopping before meeting Michele for his spellbinding account of this vibrant town.

Today, Brindisi is almost devoid of tourists, yet it is filled with yachts preparing for the annual race to Corfu. The fascination of its harbour was in stark contrast to the following day in Lecce, where we were surrounded by the white limestone splendour of Baroque architecture. Lecce is characterised by exquisitely carved churches, palaces, columns and sculptures. The detail of the stonework is extraordinary and the city truly lives up to its reputation as the "Florence of the South".

Beneath its Baroque surface, Lecce preserves many important Roman remains, including a Roman amphitheatre and archaeological sites dating back more than 2,000 years. Much of the old town, however, conceals these ancient ruins beneath later buildings. You cannot leave Lecce without tasting two local specialties: Pasticciotto, a custard-filled pastry, and Rustico, a round savoury pastry made from puff pastry and filled with béchamel sauce, tomato, mozzarella and black pepper.

Primitivo is the wine of Puglia and, thanks to our friend Jeffrey from Piedmonte, we enjoyed an exemplary tasting at Felline Winery. Our visit included a walk through the cellars, where enormous old concrete tanks once stored wine. We tasted directly from the barrels, and samplied a range of Primitivos grown in different soil conditions, finishing with their delicious sparkling wine. Still run by the original family, the winery offered a memorable experience. We felt very lucky—and very happy—by the end of the visit.

Yet Michele's walk through his hometown of Ceglie Messapica on market day was just as much fun. Watching locals fill their shopping baskets with fresh fruits and vegetables is always a delight, especially when you see what they choose. Rapini (broccoli rabe), a leafy green with small broccoli-like buds and a distinctive bitter flavour, was particularly popular. Some of our shoppers bought dresses, others antique terracotta pieces, while many carried home bags overflowing with cherries.

The return foodie visits—just as we enjoyed last year—were a highlight. We sampled local cheeses and cured meats made from pork neck and cheek, and watched the preparation of the town's famous sandwich: soft bread rolls filled with tuna, capers, generous folds of mortadella and topped with provolone cheese. It doesn't get much better than that.After a hot walk through the old town, Michele treated us to tastings of local biscuits filled with cherry conserve and an intricate ice-cream cake.Nothing is more special than being with a local and being welcomed and spoiled by their friends. Michele gave us a wonderful experience in the town where he grew up.

For the second year, my visit to Puglia has been wonderful. To stay at the breathtakingly beautiful Masseria Pistola and be looked after by its lovely staff was a privilege. To have the gorgeous Michele as our guide throughout the week was equally special. He effortlessly blended Puglian history, culture and lifestyle with his own warmth, generosity and care for our group.

This is a very special region, and we have loved every minute of it.

xx Judith