Gardens and Friends for 10 days in the UK

With a  wish list of gardens to visit, time to spend with our London friends Susan and Tom, and the chance to revisit the Cotswolds, which had been our backyard 30 years ago when we lived in Bristol, meant we packed a lot into just 10 days.

The UK is definitely blessed with a gorgeous landscape beyond its overcrowded cities. Enormous trees and hedge-lined lanes wind through the countryside and, because we chose to avoid the motorways, we travelled many of these quieter roads instead. Charming villages tell stories of England's farming past. Many old cottages and farm buildings have been beautifully restored and are now popular weekend retreats.

However, before heading north to London, we made a detour to Dungeness. It is one of the most extraordinary landscapes I have ever seen—a vast, desolate expanse of shingle lying between the English Channel and the looming Dungeness Nuclear Power Station. It seems an unlikely destination, yet its stark beauty has inspired artists, photographers and gardeners for decades.

Our reason for visiting was Prospect Cottage, the former home of artist and filmmaker Derek Jarman. I knew about his garden but after reading his book I have always wanted to see his extraudinary garde.I Despite the harsh, windswept conditions, he created an extraordinary garden from driftwood, flints, salvaged objects and drought-tolerant plants. It is a remarkable example of how beauty can emerge from the most inhospitable place. Standing there, with the sea on one side and the silent power station dominating the other, was both surreal and unforgettable.

Of course, I had a long list of gardens we wanted to visit. Reaching our 10,000 steps a day was easy, especially at RHS Hyde Hall, which is enormous and we loved their Lego bugs !! Then came four days in London, where walking is simply what you do. I did make one mistake by not checking opening times and was very disappointed to discover that the Garden Museum was closed for a private function. However, walking along the Thames, past the long humbling memorial wall to Covid Victim, our decision to catch the ferry. more than made up for our dissppointment and became even better when Cruising past Big Ben, Westminster, the London Eye and under London's famous bridges was the perfect way to spend a 30-degree summer day.

One of the highlights of London came through an unexpected friendship. Two years ago, and unkown ʼJohnʼ was travelling through New Zealand. Holly, our daughter-in-law, met him in Auckland and, knowing he was travelling alone, invited him to our family Christmas dinner in Wānaka. He even stayed the night in his van! John works at the British Museum and said, "If you're ever in London, I'd love to show you some of my favourite exhibits."  Before meeting him, we visited the new Queen Elizabeth Memorial Garden and enjoyed wandering around Marylebone. In an extraordinary coincidence, we bumped into Barbara Larson, who published my Cook books books. What are the chances?

Later that afternoon, John guided us through parts of the British Museum we would never have explored on our own. As Head of Videography, he was especially excited because the Bayeux Tapestry had just arrived in London on loan for a year, and he was ffilming it. Afterwards, a well-earned beer at his favourite nearby pub was the perfect end to a busy day.

Britain's pubs really are one of its greatest assets. They're scattered throughout cities, serve as the heart of small villages, and offer far more than the traditional Sunday roast. Their outdoor gardens and cosy dining rooms are wonderful places to relax and socialise. That evening we caught the Northern Line with Susan and Tom back to Highgate, where we enjoyed dinner at The Angel.

Another memorable visit came about through Honor Reekie. Honor had joined one of my garden tours to Ninfa in Italy last year, and I later discovered that she is a garden designer working for my gardening hero, Tom Stuart-Smith. Along with designing major gardens and winning multiple Chelsea Flower Show gold medals, Tom has created an extraordinary Garden Library containing more than 2,500 catalogued plants arranged in a grid system. When Honor said, "If you're ever in England, email me," I certainly did.

It was truly a pinch-yourself moment. She  walked us through Tom's private gardens, around the magnificent natural swimming pond, past the design studio where more than 40 designers work, and finally left us to wander through the Garden Library for as long as we liked. It was a dream come true. Millie, the head gardener, was incredibly generous with her knowledge.

A group of schoolchildren were having the best time exploring the gardens. More than 500 children visit each year, disabled teenagers were woringk in the nursery, and gardening courses are held throughout the seasons. It was inspiring to see a place where education, conservation and beauty all come together.

Gardening for a changing climate is clearly becoming more important. The emphasis here is on plants that thrive with less water, require lower maintenance, and still provide year-round seasonal interest.

Looking back, our weekend in the Cotswolds probably wasn't the best timing. we did manage a brief dip into Oxford. As expected, weekend visitors poured in from the cities. Bourton-on-the-Water, Stow-on-the-Wold, Castle Comb  and many other villages were bustling. Parking was almost impossible, cafés were overflowing, and accommodation was hard to find. Still, everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves. The region is full of beautiful gastro pubs and boutique hotels with names like The King's Arms, The Bell and Crown, The Fox at Oddington and The Eight Bells Inn—all packed with happy visitors.

Despite the crowds, we managed to visit two historic gardens. Rousham was exceptional, remaining one of England's great landscape gardens, and it was wonderful to return to Hidcote. I even recreated a photograph taken in exactly the same spot where Hannah had stood as a three-year-old in 1996.

We also made a quick 15-minute stop at Jeremy Clarkson's Diddly Squat Farm. I have never seen so much traffic heading to what is, in reality, a very small farm shop. Long queues snaked through the car park, people patiently waited for rather basic food stalls selling overpriced hamburgers and, of course, the inevitable chips. I have to admit I was completely baffled by the hype. Even the surrounding gardens looked unkempt and neglected, which surprised me given the farm's enormous popularity. It was certainly an interesting people-watching experience, but not somewhere we felt was worth a stop. 

Our third special contact was Viv, the mother of our friend Victoria from Dunedin. Thanks to Viv, we were able to visit The Newt, one of England's most celebrated gardens. The estate has an outstanding reputation for its magnificent gardens, extensive walking trails and excellent restaurants. The late Penelope Hobhouse once lived and gardened here before it became the luxury hotel and estate it is today under its South African owners.

Entry is by membership, so we were very fortunate to visit with Viv. It was an eye-opener. There is a working cider press, a gelateria, extensive productive gardens, espaliered fruit trees unlike anything we had seen before, and wonderful areas designed especially for children to explore. Lunch was based on  organic produce grown on the estate, served in a restaurant overlooking the gardens. It was a memorable experience and certainly helped soften the disappointment of finding both the Piet Oudolf Hauser & Wirth Garden was closed on a Monday.

Finally, we spent one night back in Bristol, close to the airport, before catching a 6 a.m. flight to Mallorca, where our holiday was about to begin.

Whew what a busy 10 days, but as garden lovers we have been so forumate with our visits and have been in our happy place.

XXX Judith