Italy 2026, Eternel City Start

I was trying to count how many times I have flown into Rome since 2004—perhaps too many to remember. For our single night in Rome, I chose Aventine Hill, and it was certainly a good decision. Hotel San Anselmo was beautiful. The scent of the huge linden (tilia) tree outside our window was intoxicating, and it was wonderfully quiet, surrounded by towering trees and overlooked by the enormous Sant’Anselmo Benedictine church and monastery.

I had always wanted to peer through the famous keyhole in the green door to see the perfectly framed miniature view of the dome of St Peter’s Basilica. Our hotel was only 30 metres away, which was fortunate, as we spent some time there at 6.50 am the following morning enjoying the experience without the several hundred people who had been queuing the previous evening. Two members of my tour group were also staying nearby, and it was lovely to find a very busy local restaurant serving classic Roman carbonara and cacio e pepe.

I could easily have stayed in this sanctuary for far longer than our one night. Although I have walked extensively throughout Rome and always loved it, I had never ventured up here before. There was time for a stroll through the orange-tree-filled park to soak up the views and visit the famous rose garden before mmeting my group at 2.30 pm at Fiumicino Airport. Some had already spent several days in Rome, while others had literally just flown in. Within an hour and a half we had met Damiano, our driver, and were heading south on the Autostrada towards Montecassino where we had one night before beginning our seven days at Masseria Pistola in Puglia.

Montecassino certainly ticked all the boxes. Just two hours from Rome, it is a poignant and important place for New Zealanders and having the opportunity to spend a night in the town where the New Zealand Army and Māori Battalion fought in one of the largest battles of the Second World War was really worthwhile. Waking up and looking up at the forested hillside towards the Abbey above was quite surreal, knowing that Cassino had been destroyed and the hillside blackened and burned during the battle. The following morning, we drove up the winding road to the restored Abbey, visited the Polish Cemetery, and walked through the Commonwealth War Cemetery. To think that the monastery was completely destroyed during the Battle of Montecassino is difficult to comprehend and to rebuild such an enormous structure is truly impressive.

Departing Montecassino at 11 am, stopping for 45 minutes to enjoy the classic Autostrada lunch experience, and arriving just after 4 pm made for a very manageable day.The drive begins among rolling forested hills, which gradually become a patchwork of vineyards, olive groves, and bales of freshly cut hay. Soon these give way to vast golden wheat fields, and as we draw closer to the Adriatic Sea, olive trees dominate the landscape. Masseria Pistola is exceptionally beautiful and surrounded by a creative and beautifully designed garden.

As Fabiana, our house manager, walked us through the property, everyone had the chance to see all the bedrooms. There were squeals of delight as each person was allocated to one of the ten stunning rooms. After a swim, a pre-dinner drink, and dinner at a long table outside, it was an early night spent in the luxury of our enormous bedrooms.

So Puglia has begun for a second year. As I get to know my group, I can already see that this is going to be another fun tour. Leaving Auckland three days ago already feels like a distant memory, and I am looking forward to the next eighteen days filled with special dinners, memorable visits, and wonderful experiences.

XX Judith