The Generosity of Puglia
A week at Masseria Pistola gave us more than just memories — it became our story, set against the backdrop of one of Italy’s most unique and captivating regions.
Evening meals, enjoyed outdoors in the balmy air, were prepared by the Masseria’s chef, Antonio. The menus varied from traditional Puglian favorites like panzerotti and pizza to fresh seafood and vibrant salads. The food wasn’t extraordinary — but evenings like these were more about the company and the surroundings, and in that sense, they were unbeatable. Especillay to have Michele, his wife Mila and 7 year old Giulliana one evening.
Breakfasts by Lucrezia, however, were in a league of their own: freshly baked cakes and breads every morning, alongside platters of seasonal fruit, omelettes, smoked salmon, cheeses, charcuterie, yogurt, and more. It became a ritual we all looked forward to.
The private visit to George — farmer and artisan cheesemaker — was one of those special experiences that truly make a tour.. Meeting his prize dairy cows used for milking, then watching him transform their milk into mozzarella and burrata, was like witnessing a carefully choreographed performance. He worked with so much skill and pride, producing delicious cheeses loved by the locals.
Lunch was set at a table inside his home, where, in addition to plenty of cheese, George grilled local sausages and his specialty: handmade pork balls. It was authentic, generous, and completely unforgettable.
Philip and I based ourselves in Brindisi last year, and returning with our group this time was truly lovely. This city remains largely off the tourist trail, and I honestly don’t understand why — it has so much to offer.
I made sure we arrived early enough to allow for a bit of shopping before the traditional afternoon closure between 1 and 4 pm. We enjoyed a relaxed lunch at the end of the harbor, soaking in the views, before Michele led us on a return walk through the city.
Brindisi marks the beginning — or end — of the Appian Way, the ancient Roman road that stretches all the way to Rome. There were once two Roman columns marking this historic point; today, only one remains, still proudly overlooking the harbour.
The city also shows its Roman ruins with such care and ingenuity — including a local theatre built directly above them. Elevated walkways allow you to peer down into the past. It’s totally amazing
With a lifelong passion for food, wine, interiors, architecture, and gardens, visiting the winery Masseria Li Veli was a real treat. In 1999, the historic estate was revived by the renowned Falvo family of Tuscany, breathing new life into the once-failing vineyard. Built with Puglia’s soft coloured local stone (carparo), the winery’s groin vaults show the age and height of the original structure.
We toured the pristine, modern winery, walked across its rooftop above the vaulted ceilings below, and enjoyed a simple yet delicious lunch paired with five wines crafted from Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Susumaniello grapes.
The vines are grown using the traditional bush vine system or alberello, where each vine is spaced to prevent shadows from one plant falling on another. This allows for optimal root development, sun exposure, and airflow — something I’d never seen before. From the rooftop, its effectiveness was clearly visible.
After the wine tasting, we visited the richly adorned Baroque city of Lecce — known as the Florence of the South. In hindsight, we probably should’ve done the walking before the wine! Michele knows this city of white limestone like the back of his hand and walked us through the narrow streets.
Lecce’s soft stone lends itself to the ornate carvings that decorate buildings throughout the city, especially the churches, which were intricately detailed and absolutely breathtaking.
By late afternoon, the city was quiet for siesta, but the intense heat radiating from the marble pavements was enough to send a few in search of shade and a cool drink. Most, though, stayed out to soak in the ambiance. Lecce was unforgettable.
On our last morning, we explored Michele’s hometown, coinciding with the weekly market. The streets bustled with locals carrying shopping bags, selecting fresh produce for the days ahead. I spotted baskets of snails — evidently a delicacy — and bought some for dinner. Markets can be frustrating when you’re just browsing, but we did leave with a bag of ripe peaches (yes, actually ripe — something you rarely find in Central Otago!), and figs stuffed with almonds and baked, perfect for our long drive the next day.
Visits to the local bakery and charcuterie were outstanding. As friends of Michele, we were welcomed with open arms and great generosity. We sampled traditional frisella (the double-baked bread topped with juicy cherry tomatoes), freshly baked focaccia, and crunchy taralli — Puglia’s famous little round biscuits.
Then came the charcuterie tasting, an extraordinary experience: slice after slice of incredible cured meats, all from different cuts of pork, followed by local cheeses — the standout being a bold blue infused with cherries. The wine flowed, and in that tiny shop, we shared laughter and stories with a kind and welcoming family. It was a highlight of the trip.
Michele ran into his doctor, his old football coach, and various friends on our walk — it’s that kind of town. While most residents live in modest high-rise apartments, the commitment to quality food and warm hospitality was unmistakable.
On our final afternoon, we relaxed by the pool, packed, strolled through the gardens, and took a few extra photos to hold onto the magic. A large wedding was planned for the following week, and the staff were genuinely sorry to see our lovely group go.
To Puglia, to Masseria Pistola — so smoothly managed by the ever-capable Giuseppe, and to Michele, our insightful and endlessly patient guide: thank you. You gave us more than a trip — you gave us a deeper understanding of your home area.
Reading about Masseria Pistola years ago in Gardens Illustrated planted a seed — and now, that dream has come to life. So much so, I’ve already booked again for 2026.
Watch this space for the next itinerary.
xx
Judith
