Medieval Village Life Experience
Leaving Masseria Pistola after such a tremendous week was sad, and our departure time was early.
Our destination is a medieval village called Santo Stefano di Sessanio, high in the Abruzzo mountains. We chose a slightly longer route, to make a meaningful stop at the Monte Cassino war cemetery—a site of immense significance for New Zealanders, especially the Māori Battalion, who suffered greatly during the infamous battle here.
But for us, it was deeply personal—Mike Nidd, one of our tour members, had a father who fought at Monte Cassino. Mike knew the details of the attempted assault on the monastery and shared them with us. The visit to the graveyard, where over 4,000 soldiers are buried, was incredibly moving—humbling and heartbreaking, especially when you consider how young those men were.
From the arid wheatfields as we left Puglia - dotted with hundreds of windmills to rolling hills and historic villages, the landscape shifted constantly while travelling. As we gained altitude, massive thundershowers rolled in. Though I’d tried to describe the next hotel to the group, nothing could quite prepare them—and there were definitely a few shocked faces when we arrived.
Sextantio Albergo Diffuso, is one of several so-called “diffuse hotels” that completely defy the traditional concept of a hotel. Rather than grouping rooms and amenities under one roof, Sextantio’s restored rooms, wine bar, restaurant, and reception are scattered throughout the village—formerly used as barns, stables, wine cellars, and shepherds’ lodgings.
Getting around involved walking cobbled streets and navigating inevitable stone steps. Dinner and breakfast were served in a charming, rustic dining room. Each bedroom was unique—furnished with antique pieces, handmade soap, crisp cotton sheets, natural woven blankets, candles, and in some cases, bathtubs with pitchers to pour water.
Three cranes were hard at work restoring more of the village. The once-ruined tower has been beautifully rebuilt with support from the Italian government—a miracle considering the rubble it came from. Small shops are now opening. One talented lace maker, working in fine wire to craft intricate earrings, did very well from our group’s enthusiasm.
This experience was a world away from the palatial luxury of Masseria Pistola—but that contrast was intentional. I knew it would be hard to beat, but the depth of history here was immeasurable, and the experience absolutely worth it.
We had a wonderful local guide, Elena, who introduced us to the narrow streets, tunnels, and tiny corners of Santo Stefano. She explained how Abruzzo's sheep farmers once walked 16 days to Puglia for winter grazing. Known as "transumanza" — the seasonal migration of shepherds and their flocks between mountain pastures in Abruzzo and the lowlands of Puglia in southern Italy.
The women stayed behind, surviving brutal winters in shared tunnels—evidence of their cooking fires still visible in the charred beams.
Elena also introduced us to a nearby village called Bominaco—a highlight of the trip. There, we were overwhelmed by two 12th-century churches: one beautifully restored and the other adorned with exquisite frescoes covering every wall. It’s known as “the Little Sistine Chapel”, and our time there felt far too short.
We had lunch at the village’s only restaurant, which served a hearty, traditional meal using local ingredients—saffron, lentils, sheep cheese, and the best fried pizza bread I’ve ever had.
Back at our hotel, meals were typical of the village but not outstanding. We ate here two out of three nights and walked down to a small lake-side restaurant on the third. It was lively, run by two young couples and a chef from Melbourne—brimming with energy and passion. I truly hope they succeed. Our walk back was lit up by a magnificent lightning show.
We also visited L’Aquila, which was devastated by the 2009 earthquake. Elena, who lived through it, told us how her family and most residents lived in tents for years. Restoration has taken over six years, and while some buildings remain scaffolded and the theatre still hasn’t reopened, the city has come a long way.
Elena’s walking tour—from the 11th-century Spanish Castle through the restored city to the new square—was enlightening and heartfelt. The whole group agreed: she was incredible.
But the lightning and thunder returned, prompting a spontaneous drive to Sulmona, another fascinating Abruzzese town, famed for its confetti lollies (sugar-coated almonds).
We ended the tour at Villa Tuscolana, but not before a final treat: a visit to Villa d’Este in Tivoli—a Renaissance masterpiece of fountains, terraces, waterfalls, and grottoes. It was magical.
But for me, my lifelong dream of visiting the Garden of Ninfa—finally came to fruition . Often described as one of the most romantic gardens in the world, it was everything I had hoped for. Created in the 1920s by the Caetani family, especially Gelasio Caetani, the garden blends English-style design with Mediterranean lushness, woven through the ruins of the ancient town.
It was quiet, beautiful, and filled with peace. We were alone in the garden, surrounded by massive trees and all you wanted to do was sit and listen to the water.
And as all tours must, ours came to an end. Back at Villa Tuscolana, we were served a final lovely meal in an elaborate room in the Villa.
How many tours have I had with amazing groups of New Zealanders? And I can say with all my heart: this was another. A kind, warm, and caring group—looking out for one another, sharing laughter, stories, and joy.
Thank you, Italy 2025 group, so much.
XXX, Judith and Philip
