The Ancient World in a Modern Mediterranean Landscape
The Aegean Coast stretched out before us as we drove south toward the coastal town of Ayvalik. We actually stayed two nights in the historic and very Turkish town of Cunda, which is reached via a bridge from Ayvalik. Although many of the old Greek houses remain unchanged—apart from some lovingly restored for visitors—the cobblestone streets took some getting used to. The quaint old town sat just behind a lively port, full of restaurants serving fresh seafood, little shops selling local olive oil, and plenty of nightspots buzzing with life.
From Cunda, it was only a short ferry ride to Ayvalik, which we took the next day to meet an effervescent New Zealander named Janet. Originally from Alexandra, she has lived in Turkey since her twenties with her Turkish husband and daughter. She led us to her favourite lunch spot, a charming café serving local food with walls lined with books—her winter haven by the fire. The narrow streets of the old town were fascinating, and many of us couldn’t resist buying a few colourful, inexpensive linen dresses. Evenings by the water were truly magical. After selecting our mezes, we could choose from fresh calamari, fish, and octopus. What had begun as dismay over our authentic Greek house accommodation soon turned into delight, giving us a rare glimpse of life as it once was—surrounded by idyllic waters, blooming hibiscus, and perfect temperatures.
Our guide, Yesra, met us for our first visit to ancient the Roman ruins at Pergamon, in the town of Bergama. This impressive archaeological site sits high above the town. Once a major political and cultural centre of the ancient world, it played a significant role in science, art, and medicine—the ruins of its hospital still stand a few kilometres away.
In the following days, we explored the wonderfully preserved site of Ephesus. The Archiologists have yet uncovered only one-tenth of the city, yet it hints at its former size, when over 250,000 people lived there. Highlights included the reconstructed library of Celsus, the massive amphitheatre that could hold 10,000 people, and the temple of Artemis. But it was Yesra’s knowledge and storytelling that made the visit come alive—despite the sweltering 35°C heat!
Further visits to the remains of Didyma and Miletus deepened our understanding of the region’s ancient history. Wandering among the towering columns of the Temple of Apollo at Didyma, and climbing the steep steps of Miletus’ ancient theatre—once filled with 15,000 spectators—was awe-inspiring, especially for those with little prior knowledge of the 3rd -4th century BC.
Our base during these days was the city of Kusadasi, where my favourite hotel, La Vista, awaited us. Its infinity pool, spacious rooms, and sweeping ocean views always make it feel like a sanctuary after long, hot excursions. Meals by the water here are always a treat, and we were thoroughly spoiled.
After bidding farewell to the lovely Yesra, our journey continued to one of my favourite destinations: Kas. Our hotel had the best view of any breakfast room and this special vibrant town was thankfully free from the overwhelming cruise-ship crowds of Kusadasi, it captivated us with its charm and narrow streets lined with marble. A visit to my dear friend Gaffar at his towel shop for our yearly purchase of teatowels was essential and diiner at Bacha was predictibaly amazing and where we return to each visit. The highlight here was a day on a traditional gulet along the Mediterranean coast. We stopped for at least 3 swims in crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a delicious lunch of fresh salads and barbecued chicken kebabs, and visited Kekova with its sunken city and Crusader castle. For some, there was even time for shopping! We returned a little pink from the sun, , refreshed by the sea air, and happy in one another’s company.
Our final stop was Kaleici in Antalya, where our driver, Ahmet, expertly navigated the narrow streets to reach our historic hotel in the heart of the old town. While some used the time for shopping, most of us headed to the local hamam (Turkish bath). A visit there is always hilarious, and this year was no exception. The 600-year-old hamam experience—being washed, scrubbed, soaped, and massaged—left us glowing.
We had two birthdays in two days and although Barbara was a few years younger than Philip, he celebrated his 70th birthday here. After managing to find some elusive Prosecco, we toasted him at he hotel before enjoying dinner in a beautiful garden setting. It was a nice way to conclude our journey along the Turkish coast.
XXXX Judith