Cappadocia Finale

Arriving in Alison and Hasan’s hometown of Ürgüp in Cappadocia is always exciting—especially at 5 p.m. after a long day. We had departed Antalya at 7:30 a.m., crossed the Taurus Mountains, and then driven hundreds of kilometers through dry, flat farmland—beautiful in its own way but, to be fair, rather monotonous.

Stopping at a beautiful old mosque and then lunch - which was typical of another wonderful example of traditional local food. The lamb kebabs called ‘Char Grill’ were cooked kofta style, then sliced expertly onto skewers and were delicouslty succulent along with lamb pide . These restaurants are all over Turkey - Just off the side of the road they offer meze, fresh vegetables, salads without a chip in sight.

Thankfully, many of us managed to sleep for long stretches, no doubt thanks to the inevitable travel bug!

Being welcomed at Asawari Suites Cave Hotel by Hasan’s sister and niece was a relief. It was also an emotional moment: my first visit since Hasan’s nephew Baran’s tragic passing from Covid and now the family carries on his dream.

There were wide eyes and gasps as everyone discovered their cave bedrooms—plenty of photos taken before the suitcases were burst open, some travelers clearly struggling to fit in their extra shopping purchases!

That evening, a wonderful local style casserole, which was cooked in the village communal oven was a welcome change. Served with generous bowls of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, and lettuce grown locally, it made a perfect meal. We enjoyed it in the company of Hasan’s extended family, including his daughter visiting from Belgium with two friends.

For the next three days, we immersed ourselves in this surreal and incredible landscape. On the first morning, we visited Hasan’s childhood village of Mustafapasa, a perfect way to begin connecting with local life and its deep historical roots. A quick unexpected visit to an orgiinal Greek hotel with it’s beautiful decortaed interiors and we were invited to watch a local lady making Dolmas.

Lunch options abound in traditional restaurants, but this time we ventured out to Soganli, passing caves used as natural storage for oranges and vegetables. We discovered a new restaurant where the choice was chicken, beef, or meatballs—all served bubbling hot in earthenware dishes straight from the oven. The speed of service was remarkable; the kitchen team, without uniforms or chef hats, looked more like a family working together.

Along the way, we stopped at a little cave house where a woman was podding beans outside, she invited us in to see her one-room home. Encounters like these highlight the Turkish spirit—warm, open, and eager to share their way of life.

Evenings grew cooler, and for the first time we needed cardigans. One night we returned to Ziggy’s Restaurant, a tradition whenever we visit Ürgüp.

Our guide, Fartti, led us for two days across Cappadocia’s rocky wonders: the Open Air Museum, Red Valley, Rose Valley, an underground city, the most-photographed fairy chimneys at Pasabag (Monks) Valley and lunch in Avanos by the Kızılırmak (Red River), Turkey’s longest.

We also visited Hasan’s brother’s jewelry store and attended a Whirling Dervish performance. Since my last visit in 2019, Cappadocia has changed: busloads of tourists crowd the sites, and places once free now charge admission. Many visitors come only for a single night, hoping to go ballooning. Sadly, the weather canceled flights on all three mornings our group had available—a huge disappointment. Inflation in Turkey has also impacted tourism and visitor numbers noticeably.

No visit is complete without time in Ali Sakara’s - Sultan Carpet shop. Beyond the temptation to buy, we learned so much: Turkish carpet-making techniques, regional differences, and the meanings behind patterns. As the pile of rugs grew taller, so did our appreciation. Many in our group now have not just a carpet but a family heirloom and a living memory of Turkey.

We also enjoyed a special invitation from Alison’s New Zealand friend Viv and her husband Will, who have lived in Ürgüp for 22 years and were even featured in NZ House and Garden Magazine. Their home and gardens are a sanctuary, and tasting Viv’s own white wine while taking in the views was a delight. On our final night, the raki flowed and our long table was filled with laughter alongside local Turkish friends.

Travel is about more than seeing the sights—it’s about getting under the skin of a place. With Alison and Hasan, we do just that. We learn not only about the history and traditions, but also the daily realities: where people shop, what they eat, and how customs shape their lives. Diet here is excellent, alcohol rare, but smoking very common!

So our Turkish Tour 2025 comes to an end. Once again, I had a wonderful group who knew how to laugh and support one another. Yes, there were moments of anxiety—a forgotten passport, some last-minute salvaging of clothes and shoes, and the inevitable health hiccups—but nothing we couldn’t fix.

My heartfelt thanks to my tour group for your endlless helpfulness, support, and care for one another. To Alison and Hasan, who as always handled the hard work of planning and bookings—it is a joy to work alongside you both. We are a team. And of course, Philip—who quickly earned the title “St. Philip”—made his mark too!

XXX Judith