My Beautiful Normandy Journey Finale
The heat has risen again across Europe, At Chateau Quatre Siasons we look wistfully at the unfinished swimming pool that would have been so lovely in the late afternoon. The windows are flung open to catch the afternoon breeze, although by the end of the evening that breeze has always disappeared. Our meals are now eaten outside. Although the dining room table is magnificent, these summer evenings are simply exquisite.
Alessandro’s meals have been delicious every night. He loves to plan, spending his afternoons in the kitchen creating beautiful platters and memorable meals. We have enjoyed everything from grilled vegetables and slow-baked tomatoes accompanying our barbecue of enormous French beef ribs, to local fish steaks served with tiny Normandy potatoes. There has been Beef Bourguignon, followed the next night by the best pies, a wonderful cheese soufflé (with a little help from Rae), and then, of course, what any good Italian chef can do best — a magnificent seafood risotto on our final evening.Alessandro’s tiramisu and panna cotta are already famous, but he also excelled with homemade ice cream served with mountains of summer strawberries and fresh fruit. James, our Château manager, also came up trumps with a rather wonderful Victoria sponge on our last night.
Our day trip to Mont-Saint-Michel, followed by Saint-Malo, brought crowds unlike anything we had seen during the week. Mont-Saint-Michel is the most visited historical site in France. This stunning medieval abbey rises dramatically above the sandy bay, famous for its extraordinary tides that transform the landscape — from being connected by land at low tide to appearing surrounded by water at high tide.. Dating back to the 700s, it has been a place of pilgrimage, a fortress, a prison, and today a remarkable historical monument. There is now a shuttle bus to take visitors to the island, although many still prefer to walk. Very steep steps lead upwards to the entrance, and then the journey continues through vast stone chapels, dining halls, and rooms with towering columns. The sheer scale is overwhelming — not only the size of the abbey itself but also the incredible achievement of transporting all that stone over hundreds of years to create such a masterpiece. I find these monumental places fascinating but also challenging; although they are magnificent, the crowds can sometimes take away from the experience.
In contrast, Saint-Malo, the historic walled port city, offered a different atmosphere. Famous for its pirate history, granite buildings, and narrow cobbled streets, it was also busy, but after walking the city walls together we each found our own little café within the bustling labyrinth of streets, filled with French locals enjoying their Sunday lunch. Philip and I discovered fresh oysters — a true coastal treat.
Finally, our week could not end without a visit to the delightful Honfleur. Famous for its old harbour, half-timbered houses, and artistic heritage, it is firmly on the list of must-see places in Normandy. Its history stretches back more than 1,000 years and includes trade, exploration, and war before the harbour eventually silted up.Today, the many art galleries remain, and we enjoyed time for a little shopping and lunch.
We also had the chance to drive through what are known as the “two sisters” — Deauville and Trouville-sur-Mer. These neighbouring seaside towns are separated only by the River Touques, yet their characters and histories are quite different.Trouville is the older, artistic fishing village, full of charm and character. Deauville, on the other hand, is the elegant resort created for aristocrats and high society. Its beautiful villas still line the streets, and the famous beach boardwalk remains the place to see and be seen. For those interested in casinos and horse racing, Deauville is the destination — but for many, a traditional moules frites lunch in Trouville is perfect.
To conclude our day, we finished with a visit and tasting of the famous Normandy apple brandy — Calvados.
Calvados is made by distilling fermented apple cider. It is not simply apple-flavoured alcohol; the apples are transformed through fermentation and then aged in a variety of used oak barrels to create a complex and characterful spirit. After a minimum of six years of ageing, it can be sold. We tasted Calvados aged for 6, 12, and 18 years — although we could also have purchased a 1968 vintage for €700!
Throughout the week we had driven past many orchards filled with cider apple trees , and most old Normandy farmhouses would traditionally have had several apple trees of their own. This beautiful countryside connects everything together: quiet lanes, orchards, old farms, historic villages, and the flavours of Normandy captured in a glass.Normandy has certainly been one of the most wonderful places to travel through each day, enjoying the ever-changing landscapes and the beauty around every corner.
Normandy has certainly been one of the best places to travel around each day, enjoying the beautiful landscapes and scenery. My group this time came mainly from the South Island, with the exception of my long-time traveller Sandra from Auckland. I had two brothers in their 80s — one from Wanaka and the other from Australia — as well as two sisters from Invercargill and Christchurch. It was a pleasure to see them all together and sharing this experience.
By the end of the tour, we felt — and even dressed — more French than the French! We were encouraged to make a few purchases of traditional striped clothing, which added to the fun and memories of our journey.
Château Quatre Saisons will provide many fond memories. It was almost a “pinch yourself” moment, and a place that can truly be experienced and enjoyed with a wonderful tour group.
I have loved this tour, and I believe my tour group did too. There was never a grumble, even when my best-laid plans occasionally had to be changed.
I thank everyone, along with Alessandro and Aimad — my dream team — for making this such a special experience.
XXX
Judith
PS and I nearly forgot. On our way to Paris, 2 hours was spent at Giverny -
A highlight where our time together was spent we enjoying the beauty and inspiration that captivated Claude Monet.”