All the stories history can tell
The northern coast of Spain was greener than we expected, its hills unexpectedly blanketed in gum trees and given the roading system you only get to lookdown at passing villages . Mind you we have done many exits, driven through towns and quickly returned to the motorway, Dipping down to the coast for our two-night stop, we found ourselves in the old port town of San Esteban. Restored cranes line the wharf beside the Nalon River, directly across from our hotel—the Gran Hotel Brillante. In a former life, this hotel played an integral role when San Esteban was one of Spain’s most important seaports.
Legend has it that The Brillante was not established as a business venture, but rather on a whim—to provide accommodation for the many tourists visiting the region, then nicknamed "Spanish Switzerland." The renovated hotel was stunning, blending historical details with a sense of smart sophistication. I especially loved the original black granite bar in the dining room and the elegant staircase. There are certainly many stories in the walls of this hotel.
The river mouth was within walking distance, and although we drove there, we did take the long walk along the impressive breakwater. The Atlantic crashes in here, offering beautiful views of the rugged coastline. From this point, you can also walk 2½ hours along the clifftops to Cudillero. Probably feasible since it took us nearly the same time to drive and finally find parking!
Cudillero reminded me of the tourist-heavy towns of Cinque Terre—a charming old fishing village now packed with seafood restaurants set shoulder-to-shoulder. We paused for an Aperol and wandered through the narrow, historic streets winding up the hillside, before enjoying a plate of grilled prawns and scallops.
Next stop: Santiago de Compostela, with a planned lunch break in Ferrol. Well, it was raining—and our only impression was that the town lived up to its name. In the end, it didn’t really matter that we skipped lunch, considering the fabulous food and wine we'd been enjoying.
Santiago de Compostela is famous as the endpoint of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. Our hotel was within walking distance of the town center, through a leafy wooded park. We tucked the car away in one of those vast underground carparks that seem to sprawl beneath every city. The hotel redefined the word "simple." Though the rooms were small, the tranquil courtyard, lovely lawn with sun loungers, and a petite swimming pool made it a perfect spot to relax with a vermouth at day’s end.
Unbeknownst to us, we had arrived during the festivities honouring Saint James the Apostle. The Camino de Santiago is a network of pilgrimage routes leading to his crypt in the town’s magnificent cathedral—where tradition holds that his remains are buried. As a result, the city was buzzing with thousands of pilgrims arriving over the two days we stayed. Many had scallop shells hanging from their packs—the symbol of the Camino. Concerts were on each night and we had a wonderful two houris watching the Philarmonic Orchestra of Calicai practise during the day.
Restaurants here don’t open until 8 p.m., but we found a wonderful little tapas bar called Nomad, run by two former Michelin restaurant chefs. It was another example of simplicity elevated to perfection, in both food and wine.
On our second morning, we drove 30 minutes into the countryside to visit a garden featured in Monty Don’s book. The Gardens of Pazo de Oca have belonged to aristocratic families for centuries, with influences from English and French garden design. Now open to the public, they were nearly empty when we visited. The gardens are divided into enclosures and feature fascinating uses of water: old irrigation canals, ponds, and fountains are everywhere. The garden is renowned for its hundreds of standard camellias, planted like an orchard or trimmed into hedges. Stone is used throughout—massive walls, paths, and borders—and box hedges frame everything from formal gardens to the kitchen potager. . Billowing hydrangeas created a sea of blue, and the grounds were dotted with what appeared to be Delft-style urns.
We’re still laughing about the local lunch suggested by the garden guide: €14 for three courses, including a jug of wine, bread, and coffee. Far too much food, and very basic, although the roasted chillies were amazing —but clearly a local favourite, packed with regulars.
The siesta has become a welcome part of our daily rhythm, especially helpful as we’ve been enduring persistent colds. Our last night in Santiago was a highlight: part of the festival which included fireworks at 11:30 p.m. With locals crowding every viewpoint, three separate fireworks displays launched across different parts of the city—impressive, and clearly a beloved tradition. With the hefty carpark fees finally paid, we left Santiago de Compostela to carry on its festivities, heading into the countryside once more. We passed coastal towns en route to our next adventure: exploring Portugal for the first time, starting with two nights in Porto.