Back to Istanbul
I’m back in Istanbul for the sixth time, after nearly a six-year break. I’ve been working with Alison and Hasan since 2013, and with Alison’s wonderful experience and Hasan’s insider knowledge of Turkey, we’ve created a remarkable tour. It begins in Istanbul, heads down the sea of Maramato the Dardanelles and Gallipoli, then we follow the Aegean coast with visits to Troy, Pergamum, Ephesus, Didyma, and Miletus. Along the way, we stop in the charming coastal towns of Ayvalık, Kas, and Kusadası before spending a night in the popular resort city of Antalya. Turkey is vast, and our longest driving day takes us inland through Konya to Alison and Hasan’s hometown of Ürgüp in Cappadocia.
The allure of Istanbul is timeless—even if cruise ships now crowd its views. Travelers have been coming here for over two thousand years. Once known as Constantinople, the city has been ruled by the Byzantines, Romans, and Ottomans. Following World War I and the Turkish War of Independence, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk led the founding of the Turkish Republic.
Our guide is once again Serdart, affectionately nicknamed “the General.” I admire how he calls everyone “guests,” welcoming us into his city with warmth and pride. By law, all tour groups in Turkey must have a licensed guide, and my group has quickly come to appreciate his passionate storytelling and deep knowledge.
Istanbul is pure energy. On land and water, everything moves—cars, trams, taxis, ferries, and people. The sidewalks teem with locals and visitors alike, especially around Sultanahmet, where the city’s great monuments cluster together. The air is thick with the aroma of meat grilling over charcoal, roasted chestnuts, and corn cobs from street vendors. Shops overflow with sweet nut-filled pastries dripping with honey, and resisting my favorite baklava and rose-flavored Turkish delight is nearly impossible.
From our hotel, a short tram ride took us to Sultanahmet—the historic heart of the city—where the Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Basilica Cisterns, and Topkapi Palace stand within walking distance of each other. The heat and crowds make it a demanding day, but unforgettable. Some of us even managed to slip away to Jennifer’s towel shop, a hidden gem. Jennifer, a Canadian, has revived traditional Turkish weaving on old looms, producing towels of extraordinary beauty in patterns and colors almost too stunning to choose between.
My favorite mosque, Süleymaniye, is always a highlight. Nestled among rose gardens, oleanders, and towering plain trees, it offers sweeping views of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, and Galata Bridge. Inside, the intricate tiles, vast red-carpeted floors, and endless domed ceilings are inspiring. Covering your head and removing shoes before entering adds to the sense of humility and reverence. With more than 3,000 mosques in Istanbul, the call to prayer echoing across the city five times a day is a moving reminder of its spiritual rhythm.
Meals here follow a delicious pattern: meze to start, followed by fresh salads, grilled meats, kebabs, doner, or whole fish—often with mild chilies, pickles, and tomatoes. Street food is everywhere, from seafood by the water to fish wraps wraps sold in bustling alleyways lined with stalls. Yet one of our most memorable meals was on the rooftop of a nearby hotel, where we dined with spectacular views of Istanbul illuminated at night.
No visit would be complete without the Grand Bazaar. Sprawling down the hillside with over 3,600 shops, it’s a labyrinth selling everything from jewellery and rugs to clothing, bags, and homewares. At its base, the Spice Bazaar draws you in with mounds of fragrant spices, dried fruits, teas, and sweets. Wandering through feels like stepping into a living history book and a crash course in Turkish culture and cuisine.
On a damp morning, we finally left Istanbul, driving through sprawling suburbs of endless high-rise apartments—home to the city’s 20 million residents. The journey continues, but Istanbul always lingers.