A Slow Journey - 2010

through Tuscany and Umbria

with

Judith Cullen

Friday 07 May to Saturday 22 May 2010

Preliminary Itinerary

A 15 night exclusive relaxed meander village to village, sipping caffè in charming piazzas, shopping at markets, savouring jewels like tiny shrines, chapels, avenues of cypress and gardens to be found in sublime countryside. Tasting, cooking and eating exquisite food and wine with plenty of time to enjoy Tuscany and Umbria at a tranquil pace. Tuscany and Umbria in the slow lane includes optional walks through rolling hills, fields of wheat, blossoming red poppies and golden rape.

Update, 06 APRIL 10

This one is already FULLY BOOKED but I do have some places still available on my Escape to Summer Tour

or book now for the SLOW JOURNEY TOUR IN 2011

click here for my Escape to Summer Tour

Day 1. Arrival - Rome – Pienza in the heart of Tuscany

Friday 07 May: Your host in Italy and close friend of Judith Cullen, Isabella Dusi, will meet you at Fiumicino Airport, Rome. Boarding our coach for transfer to the village of Pienza, described as the Pearl of the Renaissance, we’ll begin our journey along the Tuscan Coast. We’ll pause to visit La Città che Muore” – the village that dies – a haunting village pervaded by silence, a village that is almost no more. Walking a bridge is the only way to reach it across a chasm. It is like a ship, sitting high on a plateau of rock undermined by sand which is slowly and inexorably dissolving it into nothing. We’ll have lunch together, welcoming you to Italy, and then travel on to our destination, the beautiful town of Pienza, where we will stay for five nights.

Everything about Pienza is intended to exalt reason and perspective, and also the pope who was the city’s patron. For the gourmet traveller one of the attractions of Pienza is Pecorino, the superb sheep’s milk cheese produced on the hills surrounding the village. After you have unpacked and become acquainted with our accommodation we’ll eat lightly on delicious Italian antipasto, enjoying a leisurely glass of wine, and you will be able to retire early.

Overnight near Pienza. Welcome Lunch Out and Light Dinner with wines included.

Day 2. Pienza and Corsignano

Saturday 08 May: After breakfast we’ll take a walk around Pienza, an extraordinary mixture of the monumental and the miniature. When the great humanist of the Renaissance, Pius II, became Pope in 1459 he transformed his birthplace into a Utopian city, renaming it Pienza after his own papal name. Pius II commissioned Rossellini to build the Cathedral and Bishops Palace changing Pienza from a poor medieval village into one fit for the birthplace of a Pope! We’ll wander to the walls for the most magnificent panorama over the hills of Tuscany, an absolute feast of luxuriant colour and vivid growth. Isabella will take you on a stroll to the hamlet of Corsignano, where Pius II was born, to visit the 11^th century Romanesque Parish Church. Carved sirens, pagan snakes entwined and the Goddess of Fertility decorate the entrance as if to disclose some ancient cult. It is a gem on the fringes of Pienza.

We’ll do our shopping in Pienza, bringing back supplies for the coming days. We are not lodging in a hotel, but in rooms with cooking facilities so we are self catering and, with Judith’s help, and she with your help, we’ll prepare and cook delicious meals that we can enjoy in the garden or at the dining table.

Overnight near Pienza. Lunch and Dinner with wines included.

Day 3. Bagno Vignoni – San Quirico – Walking Home

Sunday 09 May: An exquisite day takes us to the thermal pools at a tiny village of Bagno Vignoni. A huge bathing pool used by the Romans takes the place of the piazza. Spring water emerges from the hill at a constant temperature, making Bagno Vignoni the perfect place for thermal cures. We’ll take local transport today, pausing at San Quirico, where we’ll stop for cappuccino in yet another charming Tuscan village. We’ll then take the bus to Bagno Vignoni where we’ll trace the spring, and you can even bathe where the warm spring water rushes into an opaque blue pool. The curative waters have been “taken” since Etruscan times, some thirty six springs gushing from 1000 metres underground. After lunch those who wish can begin their 3.5 hour walk back to Pienza with Isabella over old farm tracks, dirt roads and paths still lined with squared-off stones from ancient medieval and Roman roads that once passed through, linking the towns. It is a peaceful walk through rolling fields of corn and wheat, fortress like stone farmhouses, many abandoned, the fields and hedgerows home for pheasants and hares. If you do not want to walk back to Pienza, you will be able to catch the local transport in reverse to our morning journey. Once everyone is back at Pienza, in the kitchen once more, we’ll prepare a delicious meal.

Overnight near Pienza. Dinner with wines included.

Day 4. Montepulciano and Walk to Chapel of Vitaleta

Monday 10 May: Taking local transport we’ll arrive at the foot of the town of Montepulciano, one of the most popular towns of Tuscany. It is at a higher altitude than Montalcino, where we’ll be in a few days, but the two towns eye each other across the Valley of Orcia from their battlements – enemies for centuries! Montepulciano is a Florentine facing town, whereas Montalcino stays faithful to Siena. In Montepulciano you’ll find a warren of cobbled alleys and vine trailing bastions, and we’ll taste the local wine, Vino Nobile in a marvellous underground cellar dating back hundreds of years. You’ll have time to meander, perhaps to lunch at the most famous Café in the town, Il Poliziano. When we return to Pienza some people may like to relax, others may like to come with Isabella on a gorgeous shorter walk from Pienza, 1.5 to 2 hours at a relaxed pace. This is the perfect way to reach the sublime white travertine chapel at Vitaleta, its façade probably the most photographed in all of Tuscany against the back drop of cultivated fields of wheat, rolling hills and spring flowers. This evening, with everyone helping - or assisting with a glass of wine in their hand - along with Judith, we’ll all help cook delicious pasta and make salads and enjoy a long relaxing evening.

Overnight near Pienza. Dinner with wines included.

Day 5. Walk to Montichiello – Farewell Lunch

Tuesday 11 May: The stunning countryside beckons, and for those who wish to join us, we’ll be enjoying the next of our relaxed Tuscan walks during our vacation in the slow lane. This morning we are walking to the neighbouring village of Montichiello to better understand the sense of relationship to the landscape these villages have with each other. Rich and arable grazing land around Pienza where sheep nibble the aromatic herbs leads to the village of Montichiello, whose crooked watchtower is visible from afar. You may like to see the altarpiece by Pietro Lorenzetti in the 13^th century parish church. The walk takes around 2.5 to 3 hours, and when we reach this unspoiled hamlet along the white ribbon road, walking between old stone farmhouses and hamlets, we’ll have our farewell to Pienza lunch at one of the most fabulous Osteria in the Valley of Orcia. If the weather is warm we’ll sit on a beautiful terrace overlooking a scene from a postcard, taking as many hours as we need to savour Daria’s delicious food.

After lunch we’ll catch the local bus back to Pienza, relax until evening passeggiata, and then we’ll join for pre dinner drinks and a light snack dinner. Tomorrow we depart to Isabella’s home town visible across the valley, Montalcino.

Overnight near Pienza. Lunch Out and Light snack dinner with wine included.

Day 6. Siena - Montalcino

Wednesday 12 May: After breakfast a coach will be waiting to transfer us to the village of Montalcino, but we’ll take a circular route, first visiting Siena which is an odd city, and yet compelling. Its people are capable of great art, wonderful kindness, but, on the day of the Palio, its world-famous horse race around the Piazza del Campo, they display incredible passion, anger and exaltation. Siena is a place where people live in splendid contentment, but they are quickly out of sorts if not on their home soil. In the Campo you are surrounded by the quintessential medieval city – and the Duomo is nothing short of awesome. Inside is a series of frescoes by Pinturicchio which tell the life story of Pope Pius II, from Pienza, who transformed Pienza during the Renaissance. You might like to sit in the Campo and enjoy lunch, or do a little ceramics shopping, and there are excellent book shops in people friendly Siena.

We’ll arrive in Montalcino in the afternoon and settle into our village hotel. This evening we’ll meander into the heart of the village, very familiar to Judith who has spent time here, and sit down for a Campari apertivo before dinner, which is when you will meet Luigi, Isabella’s husband. Dinner will be in a trattoria, feasting on the local cuisine.

Overnight Hotel in Montalcino. Campari apertivo and Dinner with wine included.

Day 7. Montalcino and Cooking in Quartiere Pianello

Thursday 13 May: Today is special! Isabella will lead you on an informative walk around her village, taking you to secret places and introducing you to the people and life of this medieval village. Although Montalcino is on the world stage, because of the fame of its international wine, it remains a village steeped in the past.

Today you’ll learn about the four Quartieri of Montalcino, about the archery tournaments and feast days, and Isabella will take you to her Quartiere, called Pianello, where the Quartiere cooks will be waiting for you to help them by getting your hands into the flour and preparing a delicious lunch. We’ll visit the Church of San Pietro and if you have read Isabella’s books, Vanilla Beans & Brodo, and Bel Vino, Montalcino is going to add tremendous joy to your holiday. Isabella will help you get under the skin of life in Montalcino, where she has lived for sixteen years. You’ll have free time to meander the village, shop, visit the fortress and the small museum and gallery. This evening you can eat in one of the local restaurants or bars.

Overnight Hotel in Montalcino. Quartiere Lunch with wine included.

Day 8. Walk or Bus to the Abbey of Sant’ Antimo - Piero’s Pizza

Friday 14 May: This morning is market day in Montalcino so we’ll wander up and watch the locals as they carry on their socialising and bantering with the vendors. It is not a large market, but typical of the wandering vendors who visit the local villages one morning a week. With the marketing done, fresh fruit, a lunch snack and a bottle of water in our packs, those who wish to come will begin a pleasant 2 to 2.5 hour walk through farmland and wine country, passing farms and hamlets that appear untouched by the centuries, to the sublime Abbey of Sant’ Antimo. We’ll pass Villa a Tolli, a solitary, serene little hamlet tucked away with its stone fountain and sentinel cypress trees. As we descend the sight of this Romanesque abbey lying below you in an olive grove in the Valley of Starcia is an amazing sight. If you do not wish to walk you can catch the local bus to the Abbey. The Brothers at the abbey celebrate mass with the Gregorian chant, so we need to time our walk to visit the abbey and then be quietly seated before the white hooded brothers file into the church and begin to chant. This is an exceptional experience you will always remember.

There are bars and a restaurant at the village above the Abbey. We’ll return to Montalcino on the local bus and, after time to relax, we’ll be visiting friends who have an outdoor pizza oven. Piero and his family will cook delicious pizza for dinner. You can wander around the vegetable garden, help Piero, or sip wine with the family.

Overnight Hotel in Montalcino. Pizza dinner out with wine included.

Day 9. Castiglion del Lago - Cortona - Montefalco

Saturday 15 May: It is time to say goodbye to Montalcino, and to Luigi, and to wind our way down the hill to the valley and begin our journey to Umbria, where we will be staying for the next seven long beautiful nights. Our destination is the Umbrian village of Montefalco, but along the way we’ll visit pause on the shores of Lake Trasimeno at the village of Castiglion del Lago for a morning caffè, before moving on to another jewel of Tuscany, Cortona, an ancient town that preens itself on a mountaintop with all the hubris of a town that knows it is closer to heaven than earth! Under Florentine rule, Cortona exported Luca Signorelli and in return received Fra Angelico, who painted an Annunciation that rivals all those in Florence. Cortona has changed little in hundreds of years, and whilst off the main thoroughfare it is arduously steep, it is comfortable to walk around the heart and the piazza. We’ll visit the work of Fra Angelico, and there will be time for you to find a spot for lunch and then we’ll complete the other half of our journey to Umbria.

Montefalco is a silent town, even by Umbrian standards.

There are many religious orders here that keep to themselves and citizens seem to go about their lives quietly. The main product of the town is Sagrantino wine, which, at 14%, can also have a silencing effect. Montefalco is nicknamed the Balcony of Umbria, and it offers a classic Umbrian view of gentle hills, silvery green olive groves, neat vines and in the distance, the forests that cover the mountains. As we did over the first days of our time together, we’ll be lodging in self catering accommodation for the week, preparing our own lunches or dinners depending on our program. This evening we’ll do some shopping for a light dinner, perhaps a plate of pasta and something sweet from the local pasticceria – and plenty of that silencing Sagrantino wine which will not keep us quiet at all!

Overnight near Montefalco. Light dinner with wine included.

Day 10. Tranquil Montefalco

Sunday 16 May: Today is for relaxation – a leisurely breakfast and familiarising yourself with your new surroundings. A great morning for writing postcards, catching up on your journal, or finding a spot under the olive trees and sipping a glass of wine while you enjoy the tranquillity of Umbria. We’ll lunch lightly at our accommodation, and after lunch you might like to walk with Isabella to explore Montefalco. It is Sunday, so most shops will not be open, but we’ll visit the village and find our way about. You will probably find the famous linen shops open, displaying a marvellous array of intricate work which is well renowned throughout Italy. You can visit the 15^th century fresco cycle by Benozzo Gozzolo on the life of Saint Francis, and the museum, or, if you prefer, take the chance to enjoy a quiet relaxing day in beautiful countryside, with time to gather poppies or visit the vegetable gardens spread around the village.

Overnight near Montefalco. Lunch and Dinner with wines included.

Day 11. Montefalco – Walk to Bevagna

Monday 17 May: This morning’s walk takes us across the valley, following traces of the Romans, passing through vineyards that made Montefalco famous. The olive oil from this part of Umbria is said to be among the best in Italy and the hills around Bevagna are covered in groves that march up and over a rise, sometimes in formation, sometimes in scattered confusion. Extra-virgin olive oil is a staple of Umbrian cooking and the oil from Umbria is renowned as among the country’s finest. In around 2.5 to 3 hours we’ll reach the pretty hill town of Bevagna, one of Umbria’s hidden gems and practically untouched since medieval times. Sleepy Bevagna has two of Umbria’s finest Romanesque churches as well as impressive Roman mosaics and a delightful little 19^th century theatre. We’ll relax in Bevagna, and you can lunch in a caffè until it is time to catch the local bus back to our home. Once rested, we’ll gather for pre dinner drinks, and then dine at a characteristic trattoria.

Overnight near Montefalco. Dinner Out with wine included.

Day 12. Spoleto – Acquaducts & Truffles

Tuesday 18 May: Today we going deeper into Umbria, taking the local transport to the hilltop town of Spoleto, a setting of charming medieval alleys and pathways. The market will be in Piazza Mercato, so we’ll gather supplies for our lunch, everyone helping to carry our packages, and we’ll then follow the trail across a Roman Acquaduct, break our walk with a picnic lunch, and return to Spoleto. Tucked on a ledge midway between the papal fortress above and the Roman amphitheatre below rests Spoleto’s monumental Romanesque Duomo. It was built in the 12^th century, an utter amalgam of styles and materials, its soaring bell tower cobbled together from fragments of Roman structures. A well preserved Roman town house, recently discovered and restored, gives us the chance to see exactly how a Roman lived in his “town villa”.

What distinguishes Umbrian cooking in this region is the black truffle, tartufo nero, that grows in the hills above Spoleto. It is certainly the place to indulge in this peculiar gastronomic luxury, which is in everything from pasta to cheese to roast lamb and even chocolate. The chalky soil that plays its part in the delicate alchemy of the truffle also creates an olive oil low in acids and rich in flavour, and Spoleto olive oil is interestingly different. There are wonderful bakeries in Spoleto, so let’s pick up some truffle, fresh bread and cheese, and savour the pungent aroma at dinner. We’ll catch the local bus back to Montefalco and cook for ourselves, indulging in a truffle feast.

Overnight near Montefalco. Dinner with wines included.

Day 13. Sansepolcro - Arezzo

Wednesday 19 May: A coach will collect us this morning because we are going to two fascinating towns. After breakfast we’ll take the road north to the village of Sansepolcro which sits on the border between Tuscany and Umbria. Lost in a valley among densely forested hills, medieval Sansepolcro is the birthplace of Piero della Francesca and hosts some of his finest works, including the Resurrection and the Madonna della Misericordia, a polyptych with a huge Goddess like Madonna hiding a confraternity under her cloak.

After a visit to the splendid small museum, and cappuccino in the piazza, it will be time to make our way to Arezzo, which has had its share of visionaries; the poet Petrarch and artist historian Giorgio Vasari were born here –Michelangelo was born a few kilometres away. The piazza, where Roberto Benigni’s Life is Beautiful was filmed, is surrounded by the most authentic medieval architecture in any Tuscan town. We’ll sit under the loggia and soak up the atmosphere over a long lunch while we wait for siesta to be over. One of the joys of Arezzo is the enormous number of antique, bric-a-brac and collectible shops as well as great fashion and home shopping. By the time we have lunched the shops will be opening and you can browse or window shop, or seriously shop, until it is time for our journey home. After a long lunch we’ll snack this evening!

Overnight near Montefalco. Lunch Out and Snack Dinner with wine included.

Day 14. Montefalco – Walking through the Vineyards

Thursday 20th May: Relax! This is one of those gorgeous let’s not do much today days! Last Sunday we went into Montefalco, but today the village will be “alive” as it is a normal work day. It is fun to sit in the piazza and watch the locals, picking out characters who use the piazza as if it is their living room – which it is! Let’s shop locally, decide what we’ll have for lunch and dinner, talk with the locals about the vegetable produce and in whose garden it was grown, and enjoy a day meandering, reading, shopping, cooking, eating, drinking and soaking up the atmosphere– it is all part of Judith Cullen’s slow journey. During the day, for those who feel energetic, we’ll take a wandering walk for an hour or two around the vineyards which climb up and down the hills, perhaps calling into a Cantina for a few bottles of Sagrantino wine for dinner.

Overnight near Montefalco. Lunch and Dinner with wines included.

Day 15. Foligno - Spello

Friday 21st May: Today we are visiting another wonderful village, one of Judith’s favourites! We’ll be taking public transport to the nearby town of Foligno, where we’ll pause for morning cappuccino, and then we’ll take the train to splendid Spello, a ten minute ride. Spello, a former Roman colony where large parts of the Roman fortifications remain intact, is a village almost too lovely to be real. The warm colours of the old stone homes, gleaming in the sun, balconies dripping with brilliant geraniums and gardens filled with climbing roses and honeysuckle which seem to spill from every garden gate make Spello a divine village. Our visit is two fold. Firstly, it is delightful to wander around Spello, catching glimpses between stone houses of olive groves and mountains behind the village, but we will also lunch at one of the most splendid restaurants in this part of Italy – another reason Spello is one of Judith’s favourites. We’ll have our farewell to Umbria lunch and savour a truly divinely creative kitchen– it is worth the journey – after all, we are on a slow journey. After a long and scrumptious lunch we’ll journey back to Montefalco where, probably not needing dinner, we’ll begin to pack up our home, then gather for drinks and finish the wine, sun dried tomatoes, black olives and delicious Italian antipasto we’ve been indulging in over the last days.

Overnight near Montefalco. Farewell Lunch Out with wines included. Snack dinner with wines included.

Day 16. Departure Day

Saturday 22nd May: Our slow and tranquil vacation discovering the Treasures of Tuscany and Secrets of Umbria finishes after breakfast this morning. Please co ordinate your departure from Umbria and ongoing travel plans with Judith Cullen who is aware of arrangements which can be made to assist you.

Update, 06 APRIL 10

This one is already FULLY BOOKED but I do have some places still available on my Escape to Summer Tour

or book now for the SLOW JOURNEY TOUR IN 2011

click here for my Escape to Summer Tour

IMPORTANT

TOUR INCLUSIONS and INFORMATION

15 nights accommodation: 5 nights near Pienza, Tuscany, 3 nights in a hotel in Montalcino, Tuscany, 7 nights near Montefalco, Umbria. Single supplements are very limited. Accommodation has yet to be confirmed, but it is anticipated that Pienza accommodation will be agriturismo/guesthouse/farm stay, Montalcino will be a 3 star hotel, and Montefalco will be agriturismo/guesthouse/farm stay. A finalised accommodation schedule will be available closer to the tour commencement. Accommodation will not be less than the equivalent of moderate 3 star, and we anticipate rooms with rustic Tuscan/Umbrian furniture and furnishings and modern comfortable bathrooms. At Pienza and Montefalco we may not have daily maid service. You may be responsible for tidying your own room and bathroom.
Walks and What you’ll Need: You can choose to participate in the 4 lengthy walks of between 2.5 to 3.5 hours, or three shorter walks between 1.5 and 2 hours according to your ability and preference. If you choose not to participate, see the itinerary for alternative planning. On most days you will be able to take local buses instead of walking. Walkers will need a backpack sufficiently large enough to hold a bottle of water, folding umbrella, light waterproof jacket and snacks such as fruit. The choice of walking shoes is your responsibility. Many people elect to walk in sneakers, however if you have walking shoes which cover and protect your ankle, they are recommended by your hosts as they offer better ankle protection.
Breakfast is included each morning.
22 Meals as set out on the itinerary. Light lunches, lunches, light dinners, dinners and snack meals according to the itinerary. Each meal includes regional wines. There is no reimbursement for wines not consumed. Some meals will be at restaurants or trattoria as stated on the itinerary. When meals are in our accommodation everyone will be expected to “pitch in” and help Judith and Isabella prepare and cook the meals. Similarly, when we are eating in our accommodation, everyone will be expected to help set tables and clear up after meals so that our accommodation is clean and tidy – ready for the next meal. Meals not specifically listed as included on the itinerary are at your own expense. Shopping for food supplies will be a group adventure, everyone taking a turn at selecting and carrying produce for meals to be enjoyed together. Our selecting, buying, cooking, eating and cleaning up together will form an integral part of our slow and relaxed journey.
Entry fees for all visits to museums or events and wine tasting specifically stated on the itinerary are included. There is no refund if you choose not to attend any event.
All transport costs where coach service, local buses and trains are required to effect the itinerary are included. There are no “extra” travel costs involved as your tour, as set out on the itinerary, is fully inclusive. Please note that on many days we will be relying on public transport to effect our itinerary. The tour operators do not take responsibility for any delays or problems associated with the public transport system, but will make every effort to make sure the program is adhered to as closely as possible, seeking your co operation and understanding if delays or problems should occur.
One pick up at Leonardo da Vinci airport, Rome, on the morning of the tour commencement. Travel by air conditioned touring coach for transfers, and on excursion days. Please co-ordinate your departure on the last day of the tour with Judith Cullen who is aware of arrangements which can be put in place to assist you.
Porterage: Please note that you will be required to handle your baggage from the coach to your room at Pienza and Montefalco. At Montalcino, your baggage will be brought to the hotel foyer and you will then take it to your room. There is an elevator in the hotel in Montalcino. It is essential that your baggage is on wheels and manageable, clearly labelled with a boldly printed and visible name tag. Please do not use a tag which conceals your name. If you are unable to manage your baggage at any point in the vacation please advise your tour hosts so that special arrangements can be made to find assistance. Your hand baggage and personal items remain your responsibility at all times.

EXCLUSIONS and INSURANCE

Travel Insurance – please note personal travel insurance is mandatory on all tours and it is essential for you to insure your travel and tour holiday at the time you make your booking in case of cancellation due to sickness or any other cause whatsoever. It is your responsibility to ensure you have adequate insurance and your attendance on tour will only be confirmed once you have signed and returned the Tour Operators Booking Form and Terms & Conditions to your booking agent. Visas and passports, meals other than those specifically included on itinerary, personal expenses, excess baggage, telephone, laundry, bar fridge, etc. and your own optional excursions and visits are all at your expense.

Project Travel International retains the right to make practical itinerary alterations deemed necessary or for reasons outside their control. Any such alterations are generally of a minor nature, however you are assured of an equal quality tour in both value and content.

HOME	Copyright: L. & I. DUSI A Slow Journey - 2010 through Tuscany and Umbria with Judith Cullen Friday 07 May to Saturday 22 May 2010 Preliminary Itinerary A 15 night exclusive relaxed meander village to village, sipping caffè in charming piazzas, shopping at markets, savouring jewels like tiny shrines, chapels, avenues of cypress and gardens to be found in sublime countryside. Tasting, cooking and eating exquisite food and wine with plenty of time to enjoy Tuscany and Umbria at a tranquil pace. Tuscany and Umbria in the slow lane includes optional walks through rolling hills, fields of wheat, blossoming red poppies and golden rape. *Update, 06 APRIL 10* *This one is already FULLY BOOKED but I do have some places still available on my Escape to Summer Tour* or book now for the SLOW JOURNEY TOUR IN 2011 click here for my Escape to Summer Tour Day 1. Arrival - Rome – Pienza in the heart of Tuscany Friday 07 May: Your host in Italy and close friend of Judith Cullen, Isabella Dusi, will meet you at Fiumicino Airport, Rome. Boarding our coach for transfer to the village of Pienza, described as the Pearl of the Renaissance, we’ll begin our journey along the Tuscan Coast. We’ll pause to visit La Città che Muore” – the village that dies – a haunting village pervaded by silence, a village that is almost no more. Walking a bridge is the only way to reach it across a chasm. It is like a ship, sitting high on a plateau of rock undermined by sand which is slowly and inexorably dissolving it into nothing. We’ll have lunch together, welcoming you to Italy, and then travel on to our destination, the beautiful town of Pienza, where we will stay for five nights. Everything about Pienza is intended to exalt reason and perspective, and also the pope who was the city’s patron. For the gourmet traveller one of the attractions of Pienza is Pecorino, the superb sheep’s milk cheese produced on the hills surrounding the village. After you have unpacked and become acquainted with our accommodation we’ll eat lightly on delicious Italian antipasto, enjoying a leisurely glass of wine, and you will be able to retire early. Overnight near Pienza. Welcome Lunch Out and Light Dinner with wines included. Day 2. Pienza and Corsignano Saturday 08 May: After breakfast we’ll take a walk around Pienza, an extraordinary mixture of the monumental and the miniature. When the great humanist of the Renaissance, Pius II, became Pope in 1459 he transformed his birthplace into a Utopian city, renaming it Pienza after his own papal name. Pius II commissioned Rossellini to build the Cathedral and Bishops Palace changing Pienza from a poor medieval village into one fit for the birthplace of a Pope! We’ll wander to the walls for the most magnificent panorama over the hills of Tuscany, an absolute feast of luxuriant colour and vivid growth. Isabella will take you on a stroll to the hamlet of Corsignano, where Pius II was born, to visit the 11^th century Romanesque Parish Church. Carved sirens, pagan snakes entwined and the Goddess of Fertility decorate the entrance as if to disclose some ancient cult. It is a gem on the fringes of Pienza. We’ll do our shopping in Pienza, bringing back supplies for the coming days. We are not lodging in a hotel, but in rooms with cooking facilities so we are self catering and, with Judith’s help, and she with your help, we’ll prepare and cook delicious meals that we can enjoy in the garden or at the dining table. Overnight near Pienza. Lunch and Dinner with wines included. Day 3. Bagno Vignoni – San Quirico – Walking Home Sunday 09 May: An exquisite day takes us to the thermal pools at a tiny village of Bagno Vignoni. A huge bathing pool used by the Romans takes the place of the piazza. Spring water emerges from the hill at a constant temperature, making Bagno Vignoni the perfect place for thermal cures. We’ll take local transport today, pausing at San Quirico, where we’ll stop for cappuccino in yet another charming Tuscan village. We’ll then take the bus to Bagno Vignoni where we’ll trace the spring, and you can even bathe where the warm spring water rushes into an opaque blue pool. The curative waters have been “taken” since Etruscan times, some thirty six springs gushing from 1000 metres underground. After lunch those who wish can begin their 3.5 hour walk back to Pienza with Isabella over old farm tracks, dirt roads and paths still lined with squared-off stones from ancient medieval and Roman roads that once passed through, linking the towns. It is a peaceful walk through rolling fields of corn and wheat, fortress like stone farmhouses, many abandoned, the fields and hedgerows home for pheasants and hares. If you do not want to walk back to Pienza, you will be able to catch the local transport in reverse to our morning journey. Once everyone is back at Pienza, in the kitchen once more, we’ll prepare a delicious meal. Overnight near Pienza. Dinner with wines included. Day 4. Montepulciano and Walk to Chapel of Vitaleta Monday 10 May: Taking local transport we’ll arrive at the foot of the town of Montepulciano, one of the most popular towns of Tuscany. It is at a higher altitude than Montalcino, where we’ll be in a few days, but the two towns eye each other across the Valley of Orcia from their battlements – enemies for centuries! Montepulciano is a Florentine facing town, whereas Montalcino stays faithful to Siena. In Montepulciano you’ll find a warren of cobbled alleys and vine trailing bastions, and we’ll taste the local wine, Vino Nobile in a marvellous underground cellar dating back hundreds of years. You’ll have time to meander, perhaps to lunch at the most famous Café in the town, Il Poliziano. When we return to Pienza some people may like to relax, others may like to come with Isabella on a gorgeous shorter walk from Pienza, 1.5 to 2 hours at a relaxed pace. This is the perfect way to reach the sublime white travertine chapel at Vitaleta, its façade probably the most photographed in all of Tuscany against the back drop of cultivated fields of wheat, rolling hills and spring flowers. This evening, with everyone helping - or assisting with a glass of wine in their hand - along with Judith, we’ll all help cook delicious pasta and make salads and enjoy a long relaxing evening. Overnight near Pienza. Dinner with wines included. Day 5. Walk to Montichiello – Farewell Lunch Tuesday 11 May: The stunning countryside beckons, and for those who wish to join us, we’ll be enjoying the next of our relaxed Tuscan walks during our vacation in the slow lane. This morning we are walking to the neighbouring village of Montichiello to better understand the sense of relationship to the landscape these villages have with each other. Rich and arable grazing land around Pienza where sheep nibble the aromatic herbs leads to the village of Montichiello, whose crooked watchtower is visible from afar. You may like to see the altarpiece by Pietro Lorenzetti in the 13^th century parish church. The walk takes around 2.5 to 3 hours, and when we reach this unspoiled hamlet along the white ribbon road, walking between old stone farmhouses and hamlets, we’ll have our farewell to Pienza lunch at one of the most fabulous Osteria in the Valley of Orcia. If the weather is warm we’ll sit on a beautiful terrace overlooking a scene from a postcard, taking as many hours as we need to savour Daria’s delicious food. After lunch we’ll catch the local bus back to Pienza, relax until evening passeggiata, and then we’ll join for pre dinner drinks and a light snack dinner. Tomorrow we depart to Isabella’s home town visible across the valley, Montalcino. Overnight near Pienza. Lunch Out and Light snack dinner with wine included. Day 6. Siena - Montalcino Wednesday 12 May: After breakfast a coach will be waiting to transfer us to the village of Montalcino, but we’ll take a circular route, first visiting Siena which is an odd city, and yet compelling. Its people are capable of great art, wonderful kindness, but, on the day of the Palio, its world-famous horse race around the Piazza del Campo, they display incredible passion, anger and exaltation. Siena is a place where people live in splendid contentment, but they are quickly out of sorts if not on their home soil. In the Campo you are surrounded by the quintessential medieval city – and the Duomo is nothing short of awesome. Inside is a series of frescoes by Pinturicchio which tell the life story of Pope Pius II, from Pienza, who transformed Pienza during the Renaissance. You might like to sit in the Campo and enjoy lunch, or do a little ceramics shopping, and there are excellent book shops in people friendly Siena. We’ll arrive in Montalcino in the afternoon and settle into our village hotel. This evening we’ll meander into the heart of the village, very familiar to Judith who has spent time here, and sit down for a Campari apertivo before dinner, which is when you will meet Luigi, Isabella’s husband. Dinner will be in a trattoria, feasting on the local cuisine. Overnight Hotel in Montalcino. Campari apertivo and Dinner with wine included. Day 7. Montalcino and Cooking in Quartiere Pianello Thursday 13 May: Today is special! Isabella will lead you on an informative walk around her village, taking you to secret places and introducing you to the people and life of this medieval village. Although Montalcino is on the world stage, because of the fame of its international wine, it remains a village steeped in the past. Today you’ll learn about the four Quartieri of Montalcino, about the archery tournaments and feast days, and Isabella will take you to her Quartiere, called Pianello, where the Quartiere cooks will be waiting for you to help them by getting your hands into the flour and preparing a delicious lunch. We’ll visit the Church of San Pietro and if you have read Isabella’s books, Vanilla Beans & Brodo, and Bel Vino, Montalcino is going to add tremendous joy to your holiday. Isabella will help you get under the skin of life in Montalcino, where she has lived for sixteen years. You’ll have free time to meander the village, shop, visit the fortress and the small museum and gallery. This evening you can eat in one of the local restaurants or bars. Overnight Hotel in Montalcino. Quartiere Lunch with wine included. Day 8. Walk or Bus to the Abbey of Sant’ Antimo - Piero’s Pizza Friday 14 May: This morning is market day in Montalcino so we’ll wander up and watch the locals as they carry on their socialising and bantering with the vendors. It is not a large market, but typical of the wandering vendors who visit the local villages one morning a week. With the marketing done, fresh fruit, a lunch snack and a bottle of water in our packs, those who wish to come will begin a pleasant 2 to 2.5 hour walk through farmland and wine country, passing farms and hamlets that appear untouched by the centuries, to the sublime Abbey of Sant’ Antimo. We’ll pass Villa a Tolli, a solitary, serene little hamlet tucked away with its stone fountain and sentinel cypress trees. As we descend the sight of this Romanesque abbey lying below you in an olive grove in the Valley of Starcia is an amazing sight. If you do not wish to walk you can catch the local bus to the Abbey. The Brothers at the abbey celebrate mass with the Gregorian chant, so we need to time our walk to visit the abbey and then be quietly seated before the white hooded brothers file into the church and begin to chant. This is an exceptional experience you will always remember. There are bars and a restaurant at the village above the Abbey. We’ll return to Montalcino on the local bus and, after time to relax, we’ll be visiting friends who have an outdoor pizza oven. Piero and his family will cook delicious pizza for dinner. You can wander around the vegetable garden, help Piero, or sip wine with the family. Overnight Hotel in Montalcino. Pizza dinner out with wine included. Day 9. Castiglion del Lago - Cortona - Montefalco Saturday 15 May: It is time to say goodbye to Montalcino, and to Luigi, and to wind our way down the hill to the valley and begin our journey to Umbria, where we will be staying for the next seven long beautiful nights. Our destination is the Umbrian village of Montefalco, but along the way we’ll visit pause on the shores of Lake Trasimeno at the village of Castiglion del Lago for a morning caffè, before moving on to another jewel of Tuscany, Cortona, an ancient town that preens itself on a mountaintop with all the hubris of a town that knows it is closer to heaven than earth! Under Florentine rule, Cortona exported Luca Signorelli and in return received Fra Angelico, who painted an Annunciation that rivals all those in Florence. Cortona has changed little in hundreds of years, and whilst off the main thoroughfare it is arduously steep, it is comfortable to walk around the heart and the piazza. We’ll visit the work of Fra Angelico, and there will be time for you to find a spot for lunch and then we’ll complete the other half of our journey to Umbria. Montefalco is a silent town, even by Umbrian standards. There are many religious orders here that keep to themselves and citizens seem to go about their lives quietly. The main product of the town is Sagrantino wine, which, at 14%, can also have a silencing effect. Montefalco is nicknamed the Balcony of Umbria, and it offers a classic Umbrian view of gentle hills, silvery green olive groves, neat vines and in the distance, the forests that cover the mountains. As we did over the first days of our time together, we’ll be lodging in self catering accommodation for the week, preparing our own lunches or dinners depending on our program. This evening we’ll do some shopping for a light dinner, perhaps a plate of pasta and something sweet from the local pasticceria – and plenty of that silencing Sagrantino wine which will not keep us quiet at all! Overnight near Montefalco. Light dinner with wine included. Day 10. Tranquil Montefalco Sunday 16 May: Today is for relaxation – a leisurely breakfast and familiarising yourself with your new surroundings. A great morning for writing postcards, catching up on your journal, or finding a spot under the olive trees and sipping a glass of wine while you enjoy the tranquillity of Umbria. We’ll lunch lightly at our accommodation, and after lunch you might like to walk with Isabella to explore Montefalco. It is Sunday, so most shops will not be open, but we’ll visit the village and find our way about. You will probably find the famous linen shops open, displaying a marvellous array of intricate work which is well renowned throughout Italy. You can visit the 15^th century fresco cycle by Benozzo Gozzolo on the life of Saint Francis, and the museum, or, if you prefer, take the chance to enjoy a quiet relaxing day in beautiful countryside, with time to gather poppies or visit the vegetable gardens spread around the village. Overnight near Montefalco. Lunch and Dinner with wines included. Day 11. Montefalco – Walk to Bevagna Monday 17 May: This morning’s walk takes us across the valley, following traces of the Romans, passing through vineyards that made Montefalco famous. The olive oil from this part of Umbria is said to be among the best in Italy and the hills around Bevagna are covered in groves that march up and over a rise, sometimes in formation, sometimes in scattered confusion. Extra-virgin olive oil is a staple of Umbrian cooking and the oil from Umbria is renowned as among the country’s finest. In around 2.5 to 3 hours we’ll reach the pretty hill town of Bevagna, one of Umbria’s hidden gems and practically untouched since medieval times. Sleepy Bevagna has two of Umbria’s finest Romanesque churches as well as impressive Roman mosaics and a delightful little 19^th century theatre. We’ll relax in Bevagna, and you can lunch in a caffè until it is time to catch the local bus back to our home. Once rested, we’ll gather for pre dinner drinks, and then dine at a characteristic trattoria. Overnight near Montefalco. Dinner Out with wine included. Day 12. Spoleto – Acquaducts & Truffles Tuesday 18 May: Today we going deeper into Umbria, taking the local transport to the hilltop town of Spoleto, a setting of charming medieval alleys and pathways. The market will be in Piazza Mercato, so we’ll gather supplies for our lunch, everyone helping to carry our packages, and we’ll then follow the trail across a Roman Acquaduct, break our walk with a picnic lunch, and return to Spoleto. Tucked on a ledge midway between the papal fortress above and the Roman amphitheatre below rests Spoleto’s monumental Romanesque Duomo. It was built in the 12^th century, an utter amalgam of styles and materials, its soaring bell tower cobbled together from fragments of Roman structures. A well preserved Roman town house, recently discovered and restored, gives us the chance to see exactly how a Roman lived in his “town villa”. What distinguishes Umbrian cooking in this region is the black truffle, tartufo nero, that grows in the hills above Spoleto. It is certainly the place to indulge in this peculiar gastronomic luxury, which is in everything from pasta to cheese to roast lamb and even chocolate. The chalky soil that plays its part in the delicate alchemy of the truffle also creates an olive oil low in acids and rich in flavour, and Spoleto olive oil is interestingly different. There are wonderful bakeries in Spoleto, so let’s pick up some truffle, fresh bread and cheese, and savour the pungent aroma at dinner. We’ll catch the local bus back to Montefalco and cook for ourselves, indulging in a truffle feast. Overnight near Montefalco. Dinner with wines included. Day 13. Sansepolcro - Arezzo Wednesday 19 May: A coach will collect us this morning because we are going to two fascinating towns. After breakfast we’ll take the road north to the village of Sansepolcro which sits on the border between Tuscany and Umbria. Lost in a valley among densely forested hills, medieval Sansepolcro is the birthplace of Piero della Francesca and hosts some of his finest works, including the Resurrection and the Madonna della Misericordia, a polyptych with a huge Goddess like Madonna hiding a confraternity under her cloak. After a visit to the splendid small museum, and cappuccino in the piazza, it will be time to make our way to Arezzo, which has had its share of visionaries; the poet Petrarch and artist historian Giorgio Vasari were born here –Michelangelo was born a few kilometres away. The piazza, where Roberto Benigni’s Life is Beautiful was filmed, is surrounded by the most authentic medieval architecture in any Tuscan town. We’ll sit under the loggia and soak up the atmosphere over a long lunch while we wait for siesta to be over. One of the joys of Arezzo is the enormous number of antique, bric-a-brac and collectible shops as well as great fashion and home shopping. By the time we have lunched the shops will be opening and you can browse or window shop, or seriously shop, until it is time for our journey home. After a long lunch we’ll snack this evening! Overnight near Montefalco. Lunch Out and Snack Dinner with wine included. Day 14. Montefalco – Walking through the Vineyards Thursday 20th May: Relax! This is one of those gorgeous let’s not do much today days! Last Sunday we went into Montefalco, but today the village will be “alive” as it is a normal work day. It is fun to sit in the piazza and watch the locals, picking out characters who use the piazza as if it is their living room – which it is! Let’s shop locally, decide what we’ll have for lunch and dinner, talk with the locals about the vegetable produce and in whose garden it was grown, and enjoy a day meandering, reading, shopping, cooking, eating, drinking and soaking up the atmosphere– it is all part of Judith Cullen’s slow journey. During the day, for those who feel energetic, we’ll take a wandering walk for an hour or two around the vineyards which climb up and down the hills, perhaps calling into a Cantina for a few bottles of Sagrantino wine for dinner. Overnight near Montefalco. Lunch and Dinner with wines included. Day 15. Foligno - Spello Friday 21st May: Today we are visiting another wonderful village, one of Judith’s favourites! We’ll be taking public transport to the nearby town of Foligno, where we’ll pause for morning cappuccino, and then we’ll take the train to splendid Spello, a ten minute ride. Spello, a former Roman colony where large parts of the Roman fortifications remain intact, is a village almost too lovely to be real. The warm colours of the old stone homes, gleaming in the sun, balconies dripping with brilliant geraniums and gardens filled with climbing roses and honeysuckle which seem to spill from every garden gate make Spello a divine village. Our visit is two fold. Firstly, it is delightful to wander around Spello, catching glimpses between stone houses of olive groves and mountains behind the village, but we will also lunch at one of the most splendid restaurants in this part of Italy – another reason Spello is one of Judith’s favourites. We’ll have our farewell to Umbria lunch and savour a truly divinely creative kitchen– it is worth the journey – after all, we are on a slow journey. After a long and scrumptious lunch we’ll journey back to Montefalco where, probably not needing dinner, we’ll begin to pack up our home, then gather for drinks and finish the wine, sun dried tomatoes, black olives and delicious Italian antipasto we’ve been indulging in over the last days. Overnight near Montefalco. Farewell Lunch Out with wines included. Snack dinner with wines included. Day 16. Departure Day Saturday 22nd May: Our slow and tranquil vacation discovering the Treasures of Tuscany and Secrets of Umbria finishes after breakfast this morning. Please co ordinate your departure from Umbria and ongoing travel plans with Judith Cullen who is aware of arrangements which can be made to assist you. *Update, 06 APRIL 10* *This one is already FULLY BOOKED but I do have some places still available on my Escape to Summer Tour* or book now for the SLOW JOURNEY TOUR IN 2011 click here for my Escape to Summer Tour IMPORTANT TOUR INCLUSIONS and INFORMATION 15 nights accommodation: 5 nights near Pienza, Tuscany, 3 nights in a hotel in Montalcino, Tuscany, 7 nights near Montefalco, Umbria. Single supplements are very limited. Accommodation has yet to be confirmed, but it is anticipated that Pienza accommodation will be agriturismo/guesthouse/farm stay, Montalcino will be a 3 star hotel, and Montefalco will be agriturismo/guesthouse/farm stay. A finalised accommodation schedule will be available closer to the tour commencement. Accommodation will not be less than the equivalent of moderate 3 star, and we anticipate rooms with rustic Tuscan/Umbrian furniture and furnishings and modern comfortable bathrooms. At Pienza and Montefalco we may not have daily maid service. You may be responsible for tidying your own room and bathroom. Walks and What you’ll Need: You can choose to participate in the 4 lengthy walks of between 2.5 to 3.5 hours, or three shorter walks between 1.5 and 2 hours according to your ability and preference. If you choose not to participate, see the itinerary for alternative planning. On most days you will be able to take local buses instead of walking. Walkers will need a backpack sufficiently large enough to hold a bottle of water, folding umbrella, light waterproof jacket and snacks such as fruit. The choice of walking shoes is your responsibility. Many people elect to walk in sneakers, however if you have walking shoes which cover and protect your ankle, they are recommended by your hosts as they offer better ankle protection. Breakfast is included each morning. 22 Meals as set out on the itinerary. Light lunches, lunches, light dinners, dinners and snack meals according to the itinerary. Each meal includes regional wines. There is no reimbursement for wines not consumed. Some meals will be at restaurants or trattoria as stated on the itinerary. When meals are in our accommodation everyone will be expected to “pitch in” and help Judith and Isabella prepare and cook the meals. Similarly, when we are eating in our accommodation, everyone will be expected to help set tables and clear up after meals so that our accommodation is clean and tidy – ready for the next meal. Meals not specifically listed as included on the itinerary are at your own expense. Shopping for food supplies will be a group adventure, everyone taking a turn at selecting and carrying produce for meals to be enjoyed together. Our selecting, buying, cooking, eating and cleaning up together will form an integral part of our slow and relaxed journey. Entry fees for all visits to museums or events and wine tasting specifically stated on the itinerary are included. There is no refund if you choose not to attend any event. All transport costs where coach service, local buses and trains are required to effect the itinerary are included. There are no “extra” travel costs involved as your tour, as set out on the itinerary, is fully inclusive. Please note that on many days we will be relying on public transport to effect our itinerary. The tour operators do not take responsibility for any delays or problems associated with the public transport system, but will make every effort to make sure the program is adhered to as closely as possible, seeking your co operation and understanding if delays or problems should occur. One pick up at Leonardo da Vinci airport, Rome, on the morning of the tour commencement. Travel by air conditioned touring coach for transfers, and on excursion days. Please co-ordinate your departure on the last day of the tour with Judith Cullen who is aware of arrangements which can be put in place to assist you. Porterage: Please note that you will be required to handle your baggage from the coach to your room at Pienza and Montefalco. At Montalcino, your baggage will be brought to the hotel foyer and you will then take it to your room. There is an elevator in the hotel in Montalcino. It is essential that your baggage is on wheels and manageable, clearly labelled with a boldly printed and visible name tag. Please do not use a tag which conceals your name. If you are unable to manage your baggage at any point in the vacation please advise your tour hosts so that special arrangements can be made to find assistance. Your hand baggage and personal items remain your responsibility at all times. EXCLUSIONS and INSURANCE Travel Insurance – please note personal travel insurance is mandatory on all tours and it is essential for you to insure your travel and tour holiday at the time you make your booking in case of cancellation due to sickness or any other cause whatsoever. It is your responsibility to ensure you have adequate insurance and your attendance on tour will only be confirmed once you have signed and returned the Tour Operators Booking Form and Terms & Conditions to your booking agent. Visas and passports, meals other than those specifically included on itinerary, personal expenses, excess baggage, telephone, laundry, bar fridge, etc. and your own optional excursions and visits are all at your expense. Project Travel International retains the right to make practical itinerary alterations deemed necessary or for reasons outside their control. Any such alterations are generally of a minor nature, however you are assured of an equal quality tour in both value and content.
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