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Judith Cullen’s |
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Cooking classes, tours and books |
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Sicily,
Amalfi Coast and Puglia |
Copyright:
L. & I. DUSI
THE
TASTE OF
SICILY
AMALFI COAST and WHITEWASHED PUGLIAWith Judith
Cullen Friday
19 September 08 to Friday 03 October 2008
14
nights in Italy
Amendments
to this preliminary itinerary will be of a minor nature to facilitate
the coordination of visits and availability of hosts.
Day
1. Commencement - Rome: Friday
19 September : Your tour hosts, Isabella and Luigi Dusi, will meet you at
the National Departures Check In Counter, Leonardo da Vinci Airport,
Fiumicino, Rome, for our flight to Sicily.
After
introductions, we’ll relax over coffee, and soon it will be time to
board our aircraft. On arrival at Catania our coach will deliver us to
stunning Taormina, perched high above the sea, where we will stay for four
nights. Our hotel is situated in the centre of Taormina and you may like
to enjoy a stroll through the heart of Taormina. We’ll meet for
an introduction to our tour. The fortunes and misfortunes of Sicily
brings into focus Sicily’s strategic importance at the centre of three
continents – Africa, Asia and Europe. The Sicilian table is influenced
by Phoenician settlers who brought the olive, Greek colonists who brought
grapes, honey and almonds, Arab invaders who brought oranges, rice,
pistachio and saffron, and from America came the basis of many famous
Sicilian dishes using eggplant, such as caponata. Sunny Sicilian
tomatoes and the omnipresent red and yellow Fig of India are tastes of
this island of abundance. An early welcome dinner will be our initial
indulgence in the delicious cuisine of Sicily. Overnight ***Hotel Taormina. Dinner with wines included.
Day
2. Taormina
- Mount Etna Volcano – Etna Garden and Orchard: Saturday
20 September: Overlooking the Ionian Sea, Taormina beckons you to discover
its secrets….. for a couple of hours this morning you can devote
yourself to its delightful heart and enticing boutiques. From
the time when the wealthy set out on The Grand Tour of Italy in the late
1800’s, Taormina was the destination which drew artists and writers
seeking a summer hide-a-way in unsurpassed beauty among classical ruins. Departing
Taormina late this morning we’ll pause on the slopes of Mt Etna to visit
a marvellous private garden where mandarin, lemon and exotic fruit share
space with mandarin, lemon trees and vegetables. We’ll culminate our
visit with snack lunch of the garden produce. Etna
is Europe’s largest active, live volcano. It is feared and yet loved,
the flowing lava has buried whole towns, devastating everything in its
path. How can something so destructive be open to visitors? A permanent
team of vulcanologists measure and watch the volcano, and when it stirs
into fiery action they are already aware of pressure building in the cones
which are caused by the up thrust of the earth’s crust. You enter a
barren and eerie landscape as the vegetation gives way to layers of black
lava. We’ll visit the crater of San Silvestro, and you can walk around
the rim of the crater if you wish. Way back in Roman times, the snow of
Etna was mixed with honey to make a sweet and icy concoction.
We’ll return to Taormina and you will be free for the evening. Overnight: ***Hotel Taormina. Snack lunch with wine included.
Day 3. The
Straits of Messina: Sunday
21 September: Messina was completely rebuilt after the devastating
earthquake in 1908 took the lives of more than 100,000 people. At the
Cathedral our host will be waiting, and after our visit to the church
we’ll see some of the highlights of Messina. We’ll then see a
demonstration of the making of typical foods of Messina, such as arancina,
and we’ll adjourn to a local restaurant for lunch.
On our return you will once again be free in Taormina to enjoy some
exploring time, perhaps to walk to the castle at the top of the town, or
to enjoy the exquisite shopping, or perhaps you’ll take the cable car
down to the sea. Overnight: ***Hotel Taormina. Lunch with wines included.
Day 4.
Siracusa: Monday
22 Septemberr: Setting off early this morning we’ll travel to the south
along the coast facing the Ionion Sea to reach Siracusa and in particular
the island of Ortygia. A walk through the alleys of Ortygia will bring us
to the piazza and the Cathedral, which was rebuilt after the disastrous
earthquake of 1693, and is now a celebration of Baroque architecture.
You’ll have time to explore, and to have your lunch. On Monday
morning the clothing and similar shops will be closed, so make sure you
take advantage of free time in Taormina for shopping! Our excursion this
afternoon will include one of the most important Greek theatres in
existence dating from the 5th century BC where the great Greek
playwrights premiered their tragedies. We’ll visit the latomies –
stone quarries – from where millions of cubic metres of stone were
extracted with which to build the temples, and the Ear of Dionysus, where,
thanks to the extraordinary acoustics, Dionysus could hear the whispers of
his enemies who were imprisoned. On our return to Taormina you’ll be
free for the evening. Overnight ***Hotel Taormina.
Day
5. Milazzo - Sto Stefano - Cefalù - Palermo: Tuesday 23
September: Today we make our way to Palermo where we will stay for two
nights. Departing on the autostrada early this morning we’ll travel
to Milazzo where the fisherman bring their catch for sale to wholesalers
throughout the island. Each morning many of the fish vendors set up their
stalls in the open and await the public or restaurateurs of the region to
select from the day’s catch. We’ll visit the morning fish market and
travel on to the town of Sto Stefano where we’ll stop and visit a
manufacturer of Sicilian ceramics. In Sto Stefano you’ll see the many
shops selling ceramics, have your lunch, and then we’ll continue our
journey, pausing at Cefalù where you can walk down to the sea, or visit
the marvellous Norman
Cathedral. We’ll arrive in Palermo in the late afternoon. This evening
you have the option of joining our dinner group for a meal of Arab/Tunisian
Sicilian food in a local restaurant. Optional group dinner at your expense. Overnight ***Hotel Palermo.
Day
6. Palermo: Wednesday
24 September: Your fascinating encounter with this chaotic capital begins
this morning. Palermo is a city encompassing the Greek and Carthaginian
cultures; it suffered Roman conquest, Arab occupation, Byzantine tyranny,
Norman invasion, sack by the Barbarians and the rule of Spanish and French
invaders. It is an exasperating metropolis as vivacious as it is
astonishing. Isabella will lead an orientation walk which will include the
Pretoria Fountain and La Martorana, a unique work combining Norman, Arab
and oriental architecture Next
we’ll experience the vibrancy of Sicilian food exploring the Ballerò
market. This is Palermo’s poorest district, but the market offers an
explosion of colours and odours with the atmosphere of a Arabian suk. Open
air butchers display every particle from many kinds of beasts, and it is
common to see a bucket of tripe simmering, a pan of entrails bubbling away,
or sacks of snails squirming at your feet. The
fishmongers thrash huge octopus on marble slabs, slicing great slabs of
sword fish and bloodied tuna. After
the market we’ll pause for lunch, and then to a Pasticceria for a
demonstration of the making of Sicilian cassata. The cassata recipe was
created by Muslim pastry cooks, called Qas’at – and is made with
ricotta, candied fruits, cinnamon and - after the Spanish invasion –
Spanish sponge cake was added. In the afternoon we’ll visit the tombs of
Emperor Frederick and Queen Constance in the Norman Cathedral, and one of
humanities treasures - the Palatine Chapel, a masterpiece of Islamic art
inside the Palace of the Normans, built by Roger II in 1132. We’ll
gather for dinner this evening, which will introduce you to Palermitano
cuisine. Overnight: ***Hotel Palermo. Dinner with wines included.
Day
7. Erice – The Salt of Trapani - Marsala: Thursday 25
September: Following an early check out of our hotel and loading our
baggage on the coach, we have a full day to explore the western coast
before returning to Palermo and boarding our cruise ship to mainland Italy.
Towards
Trapani we enter a magical lunar landscape. On this mirror of water soar
crystal mountains – this is the Strada del Sale, the road of marine salt,
which joins Trapani and Marsala with glassy mounds and where, delicately,
this precious material is extracted, as it has been for two thousand years.
We’ll visit the salt museum at the Phonecian port of Mozia. Travelling
on towards Marsala we’ll visit a cellar and following an explanation of
the regional grape varieties we’ll enjoy a wine tasting. The
village of Erice is poised 750 metres above the sea. Passing along the dry
stone paths closed in by Phoenician walls, suddenly you face the blue of
sea and sky. We’ll find the pasticceria where Erice’s famed cook bakes
specialties like La Palline, scrumptious balls of orange and chocolate.
Her Mustaccioli delle Monaci (monk’s biscuits) are infused with clove
and almond. At the age of eleven Maria entered a cloistered convent where
she learned to make the sweets and biscuits. You may have read the book
‘Bitter Almonds’ by Mary Taylor Simeti which talks about Maria’s
life. A light lunch is included today, but we will remain flexible as to
where we will eat, depending on traffic conditions and time available. We’ll
return to Palermo in the early evening and board our cruise ship. For your
comfort and convenience you are requested to bring on board to your cabin
only your hand baggage and articles which you can carry comfortably. All
main baggage will remain on our coach which will be travelling to Naples
on the cruise ship along with us. All meals on board ship are at your
expense. The cafeteria style restaurant on board offers light meals.
Accommodation is in first class twin bedded cabins with private bathroom
facilities. Overnight on board Cruise Ship Palermo to Napoli. Light lunch included.
Day
8. The Port of Napoli - Pompei and Sorrento. Friday
26 September: Early this morning our ship will dock at Naples, we’ll
disembark and, as soon as our driver and coach are ashore, we’ll stow
our hand baggage and, clearing the Port of Napoli we’ll begin our
journey to Sorrento, pausing for a light breakfast of cappuccino and
brioche. Before Sorrento we’ll stop to visit the archaeological ruins of
the city of Pompei. On the 24th of August in the year 79, the
volcano of Mt. Vesuvius erupted and sepulchred a whole city under a deadly
layer of molten ash which rained from the sky for hours, asphyxiating the
citizens, and burying their city. Archaeologists are still excavating the
last third of the territory of the city of Pompei offering a fascinating
experience. After
our visit to Pompei we’ll lunch on delicious Neapolitano pizza and then
travel on to Sorrento where we will stay in the centre of town for three
nights. Sorrento and the towns along the coastline are jewels of
international fame offering interesting shopping and an ambience for
relaxation over the coming days. Once settled into your room, you will be
free for the evening to explore your new surroundings. Overnight: ***Hotel Sorrento. Pizza lunch with wines included.
Day
9. Paestum - Mozzarella: Saturday 27 September: There are two
very good reasons to visit Paestum. One is the chance to visit a buffalo
farm run by a Baroness, who also produces olive oil. We’ll stop at the
Azienda where raw buffalo milk mozzarella is produced – one of the few
remaining authorised raw milk mozzarella producers in the world, and here
we’ll see the process for the production of this highly regarded buffalo
milk cheese. We’ll
enjoy a light lunch in the grounds of the villa owned by the Baroness, and
then we’ll visit the archaeological site of Paestum, founded in the 7th
century BC by Greek colonists. Paestum enjoyed trade with the Etruscan
civilisation, but was conquered in the 4th century BC by native
Italian tribes, then fell under Roman domination. Here we will see three
evocative Greek temples standing in a field of flowers, including the
magnificent Temple of Neptune. The temples of Paestum have survived the
ravages of time and pillaging better than the more famous Parthenon in
Athens. We’ll return to our
hotel by autostrada. Overnight***Hotel Sorrento. Light lunch with wines included.
Day
10. Amalfi - Positano - Isle of Capri: Sunday 28 September: The
Amalfi coast is a craggy coastline dotted with inlets shadowed by
mountains of stone which rise from the sea. Many stunning cliff top towns
have given the Amalfi Coast its international fame. Today we drive along
the Amalfi Coast for a thrilling and panoramic ride until we reach Amalfi,
a sea side town which was once a maritime power vying with Venice
for control of the Adriatic. Positano is a jumble of colourful houses
built one on top of the other as if tumbling into the sea. The Cathedral
of Amalfi, at the entrance of the town is one of Italy’s most awesome
churches. Please note that at the time of preparing this preliminary
itinerary regulations concerning motorised transport along the Amalfi
Coast are under review. We are unable to specify travel details until
regulations are finalised. The
Island of Capri needs little introduction: famed all over the world as an
island of paradise. Capri’s main income derives from tourism and while
famous personalities such as Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and Clark
Gable were, long ago, to be seen strolling around, now-a-days the rich and
famous still come, but rarely make themselves seen. Instead, many
thousands of tourists make the trip from the mainland each day because
everybody wants to share in the fame of the Isle of Capri. We’ll travel
to Capri in the afternoon and spend a little time at one of the villages
when the crowds are beginning to dwindle. A glass of wine or campari as
the sun lowers over Capri is the best way to enjoy this beautiful island.
On our evening return to Sorrento we’ll gather for dinner in a family
trattoria. Overnight ***Hotel Sorrento. Dinner with wines included.
11.
Matera in Basilicata – Puglia: Monday
29 September: Today is a travel day and we leave Sorrento early this
morning and travel on the autostrada to the east, entering the region of
Basilicata to visit the sassi of Matera on our way to whitewashed
Puglia. Our first stop is to visit the local bakery where we can see the
making of the breads and focaccia of Basilicata, which we’ll taste along
with the bakery specialities. A
handful of decades ago Matera represented quintessential poverty. The most
striking account of how people lived, still within living memory, is given
in the book Christ Stopped at Eboli written by Carlo Levi.
‘The houses were open on account of the heat, and as I went by I could
see into the caves. Some of them had no entrance but a trapdoor and ladder.
In these dark holes with walls cut out of the earth I saw a few pieces of
miserable furniture…on the floor lay dogs, sheep, goats and pigs. Most
families have just one cave to live in – this is how twenty thousand
people live.’ Vast amounts of funds in the 1960’s and 1970’s
eradicated malaria and put a stop to starvation. Whilst no longer a land
of poverty-stricken peasants worn down by malaria, Basilicata retains a
powerful sense of isolation. Today people are returning to live in the sassi,
but now it is trendy, as a population of artists and writers move in. In
the afternoon we’ll travel on to our home for the next three nights in a
charming “Liberty villa” set in a park on the fringes of the
whitewashed village of Ostuni. We’ll eat buffet style at the hotel this
evening. Overnight ***Hotel Ostuni, Puglia. Buffet Dinner with wines included.
Day 12. Valley of the Trulli – Puglian Olive Oil - Ostuni: Tuesday 30 September: The Valley of Itria offers romantic marvels hard to equal. Peasant farmers constructed, out of necessity and with scarcity of materials, fairytale conical houses, pointing into the sky, gleaming in the sun like icebergs. More than three thousand trulli cluster around villages or dot the countryside. Some trulli lie abandoned, and so do many Masserie, where the feudal overlord of the peasant lived. The Masseria was autonomous, fortified, a place of work, for production of cheese, raising cattle, milling olives, a place of prayer and of battle. After a free morning for you to discover the gleaming white washed town of Ostuni we’ll gather to visit a Masseria and taste the olive oil of Puglia which is a symbol of the cuisine. A light lunch will be served at the Masseria. Our afternoon will be spend traversing the countryside and the fairytale world of the Trulli. Overnight ***Hotel Ostuni. Light Lunch with wines included.
Day
13. Lecce - Wines of Manduria: Wednesday
01 October: This morning we’ll explore the Florence of the South.
Un-touristed Lecce is a triumph of baroque in a theatrical explosion of
festoons, masks, caryatids and putti with balconies and terraces
sumptuously decorated. It is as if the very bones of the martyrs have been
used to adorn the churches and palaces around the perimeter. The church of
Santa Croce, a supreme example of baroque Leccese, suggests a bizarre
fantasy of monsters, the façade is profusely decorated with soft golden
sandstone, an exuberant and incredible combination of elements. You’ll
have free time in Lecce to explore, shop and have
your lunch, and then we’ll begin our return
journey, bringing back to our hotel some of the wines from the
Manduria region where Primitivo - a surprisingly uncompromising 100%
varietal, is grown. We’ll return to our haven in the Valley of Itria in
the afternoon so that you have time to enjoy tasting some wine, and then
to prepare for your departure in the morning. We’ll gather this evening
for a delicious farewell dinner. Overnight ***Hotel Ostuni. Dinner with wines included.
Day 14. Montecassino - Roma: Thursday 02 October: This morning we depart and begin our coach journey to Rome. We will break our journey for morning coffee, and for you to buy a sandwich lunch, and in the afternoon, before reaching Rome, we’ll pause at a site which has a sacred meaning to all New Zealanders. Montecassino is a place written into the hearts and minds of New Zealand families, and their descendents, whose soldiers fought a bitter battle along with the allied forces to break the line at Montecassino in World War II. The story of Montecassino will unfold as we travel up to the monastery, rebuilt after destruction in war. Our
estimated arrival time at the Termini Railway Station, Rome, is
approximately 6.30 pm. If you are among guests spending nights in Rome
with Judith following our tour, your hotel is close to the railway
station and you will be able to wheel your baggage to reception. On arrival in Rome we will check into our hotel which is close to Termini Railway Station. Overnight *** Hotel in Rome.
Day
15. Rome – The Eternal City: Friday 03 October: Guests
completing the 14 nights Group Tour Package depart Rome this morning.
Judith will arrange transfers to Fiumicino Airport, Rome. Your tour hosts
take no responsibility for delays of any nature whatsoever which could be
caused by traffic, weather, strikes or any kind of unpredictable delay
over which they have no control and which could interfere with your
departure. Guests whose departure plans do not coincide with the
designated departure will need to make alternative arrangements at their
own expense which must be co-ordinated with booking agent and tour hosts. Guests
taking the OPTIONAL Rome extension package
will remain with Judith and commence their two day Rome adventure this
morning. Today is your opportunity to “walk” Rome – the best way to
see the eternal city. Having experienced our Culinary & Culture Tour
you will now be Italian wise – or you can feel free to do your own thing
if you prefer. You can join Judith this morning and using the hop-on-hop-off bus we’ll set off at 9 am and our first stop will be to visit the colourful Mercato dei Fiori, a vibrant local marketplace where everyday Romans buy daily food requirements. From the market we’ll walk to Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Hopping back on the bus we’ll hop off at St Peter’s Square and Vatican City. Judith will take you to lunch at a favourite Trattoria serving wonderful Insalata Mista with fresh mozzarella cheese. You may like to visit St Peter’s Basilica, or the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel. In the early afternoon it is often possible to enter the Vatican Museums without waiting in a queue. Back
on the bus, we’ll hop off in Via Tritone. From here it is a short walk
to the Spanish Steps and you will be free to shop and explore these famous
shopping streets. We’ll hop back on the bus which will take us back to
Termini Railway Station, which is close to our hotel. Transport,
meals and entry fees at your expense. Overnight***Hotel in Rome.
Day 16. Rome: Saturday 04 October: Continuing your Rome Extension you may prefer to choose your own itinerary today. Judith will offer an optional morning walk to the Borghese Gardens. Entry into the Borghese Villa is optional and dependent on availability. In the afternoon you will be free to explore Rome. Another option for today is a separately organised tour with a private company to take you to Tivoli Gardens and Hadrian’s Villa. You may like to spend the afternoon exploring Trastevere, a trendy and interesting nearby suburb of Rome, or shopping along the Via Nazionale. Transport,
meals and entry fees at your expense. Overnight ***Hotel in Rome.
Day 17. Departure from Rome: Sunday 05 October: Judith will arrange airport transfers for all guests this morning for your return on the designated group flight to New Zealand.
Tour Hosts: Isabella and Luigi Dusi, English and Italian speaking tour leaders, are personal friends of your tour host Judith Cullen. Luigi is Italian by birth, but spent many years living in Australia. His interests are the wine and culture of Italy. Isabella grew up in Australia. Her interests are the history, culture, art and food of Italy. Isabella’s extensive knowledge of history and art appreciation talks, presented in an enjoyable and animated style, will greatly enhance your understanding of Italy, bringing to life remarkable aspects of Italian history and culture which previously you may only have read about. Isabella’s books - Vanilla Beans & Brodo and Bel Vino are recommended reading for those who seek to understand Italy and Italians.
TOUR
INCLUSIONS Total
of 14 nights. Twin share
accommodation including light breakfast each morning at hotels. Single
supplements are available. Payment of a single supplement entitles you to
a room to yourself with a single bed and private bathroom. 4 nights
***Taormina – 2 nights*** Palermo – 3 nights*** Sorrento – 3 nights***
Ostuni - 1 night ***Rome. Hotels have yet to be confirmed.
You are guaranteed *** star accommodation throughout the tour. A
hotel schedule will be made available with the final itinerary and well
before tour commencement. 1 Night - first class twin bedded cabin
with private bathroom facilities on cruise ship for sea voyage Palermo to
Napoli. 10
Meals – Breakfast on each day of the
tour. Light lunches, lunches or dinners
are included as set out on the itinerary. There is no reimbursement for
wines or meals not consumed. Meals not listed on the itinerary are at your
own expense. Meals on board ship are at your expense. Domestic
Flight – Economy class flight Rome to
Catania is included in your tour costs. Sea
Voyage – Palermo to Napoli in first class
cabin on cruise ship is included in your tour costs. Important
notice:
This itinerary has been prepared in accordance with departure and
arrival times presently quoted by the airlines and cruise ship company.
Should any alteration to timetables be made you will be advised before
departure of any amendments to the program, including departure and
arrival times. Entry
fees and costs for all visits and events
scheduled on the itinerary are included. There is no refund if you choose
not to attend any performance or event. Greek Theatre and Ear of Dionysus
at Syracusa, Mt Etna excursion, Entry to Palatine Chapel in Palace of the
Normans, Tombs of King and Queen of Sicily at Norman Cathedral, La
Martorana, Excursion to Amalfi and Isle of Capri, Archaeological site at Pompei, Temples and Museum of Paestum,
Sassi at Matera, Montecassino. Food
and Wine Events: the costs for all food and
wine events scheduled on the itinerary are included in your tour. Please
note that as our tour draws near food and wine events may need to be re
scheduled to accord with availability of food and wine hosts at the time
of visit. Your tour hosts will program any rescheduling necessary and
advise you of any alterations to the day’s program. On
arrival –
On the morning of the tour commencement your tour hosts will meet you in
the National Departures Check In at Leonardo da Vinci Airport, Fiumicino,
Rome. Your flight arrival must be co-ordinated with your booking agent to
ensure you arrive with appropriate check-in time for the flight to Catania. If your private
travel plans, or flight connections or independent arrival, mean you are
unable to meet your hosts at Leonardo da Vince airport Rome in time to
board the group domestic flight to Catania, you will need to make your own
private arrangements to arrive at Taormina in Sicily which will be at your
expense. Travel
throughout the tour by air conditioned touring coach. On
departure
– The tour concludes with the arrival of our coach at Termini Railway
Station, Rome. Estimated arrival time at Termini is 6.30 on the evening of
the final day of the tour. It is your responsibility to be aware of the
estimated arrival time at the departure point of Termini Railway Station
Rome and to ensure that your travel plans are not endangered due to
circumstances outside the tour operators control and for which they take
no responsibility, such as any delay due to weather conditions or traffic,
hold ups or any other kind of unforeseen delay. It is your responsibility
to ensure you leave a wide margin for your ongoing travel plans or
connections. Gratuities
– to coach driver and at group meals in hotels and restaurants is
included. Hotel
Porterage
of strictly one piece of baggage per person will be provided to and from
coach to hotel foyer. Room service porters are generally not
available at three star hotels in Italy. You will be responsible for
transporting your hand and main baggage from the hotel foyer to your room
on arrival, and vice versa on departure. Please ensure your baggage is on
wheels and clearly labelled. If you are physically unable to manage your
baggage, we will seek to secure help on your behalf. Baggage:
Air travel
– you will be required to handle and check in your own baggage for the
flight Rome to Catania and to retrieve your baggage from the carousel on
landing at Catania. We highly recommend baggage with wheels which you will
then comfortably be able to wheel to the touring coach for loading. Baggage:
Sea Voyage
– For our overnight cruise please pack your hand baggage with whatever
you will need in your cabin, and whatever you can comfortably carry, as
all main baggage will remain on the touring coach. This arrangement is for
your comfort and convenience so that you do not have to load and unload
your main baggage into and out of your ship cabin. Your main baggage will
remain on board the coach, which will be travelling on the cruise ship
along with you. Please note that you will not have access to the coach nor
your main baggage once the coach is embarked nor during the cruise.
Loading and unloading group main baggage in and out of cabins is a
difficult operation which will be avoided. We request that you bring to
your cabin only your hand baggage and articles you can carry comfortably,
such as toiletries and a change of clothes, for your overnight cruise. TOUR
COST
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for bookings, information, etc, mail me at: toursitaly@judith-cullen.com |